bighead wrote:
Silver_Pharaoh wrote:
bighead wrote:
Not sure if this helps. But when i converted mine we had to float the ground on the lighting coil.
"Float" the ground?
I've seen that term used a few times but I never understood what it means. =/
It has to something about removing ground wire from the coil. Or soldering ground wire to the other side of the coil. I got my info on this from the member Hotrod on this site. Once the ground wire was floated we had zero problems charging the electric start battery.
Here is a video i made a few years ago.
https://youtu.be/arSKtLM735kThis is for charging batrery. Then lights had to have ground and hot wire to run them.
but i think floating is moving ground ground coil to the other side of the lighting coil. But pkease verify.
Ohhh okay. I will watch your video soon I hope. I currently do not have my main computer and this one I'm using doesn't play youtube videos...
So floating as I understand it is separating the ground from he rest of the electronics. At least that's what I'm reading.
Joker0370 wrote:
I've been looking up a lot on this, but as i understand it, the entire charging system on this machine is AC. You have an AC coil that provides voltage for the ignition, and an a/c charging coil for the lighting. They both have a common ground, going to the frame. Due to the differences between the movement of electrons with A/C and D/C power, they cannot share a ground, as one of the circuits would be constantly shorting with the change of motion in the electrons, so you have to isolate the two. The most common appears to be 'floating' the ground by using the charging circuit to power a rectifier. The
rectifier produces DC, and you can use this to charge a battery, but anything being used by the battery needs to now have two wires going to it, as you cannot use the frame as a common ground for the D/C circuit, as the A/C is using it for the charging system. Basically, you need to wire the lights and their switches with a red wire for power and the black wire for ground w/o using the frame (you could get tricky and use some sort of relay for the switching, but it would take some thought). Now, i'm not an expert, but that is what i think i understand from the subject. I've been wondering if you can change the entire system over to D/C, and power the ignition system off the battery, but i haven't figured out if using the power from the battery would be sufficient. I always thought i would dabble with this some more if i could find a electric start kit to fool around with, but i haven't been able to find one yet.
Indeed AC and DC can't share the same ground. I was reading a few days ago about some other ATV that did this. Some polaris I think.
No I don't have any electric start on this FL250. All I have done is tapped into 2 wires coming from the
Engine the yellow and the red/black, and somehow they give too many volts.
I have confirmed that the stator has continuity to ground, the frame. I read this is bad and that means the stator is now bad. Even if this was the case - the stator is feeding voltage to the frame from a short it shouldn't matter since the rectifier is not grounded to anything.
I'm really not wanting to tear out the stator since everything else works perfectly. If it ain't broke don't fix it right? What I do want to try though is splitting the yellow wire into 2 and feeding both wires into the rectifier. Perhaps that way it will give me 12v DC instead of 24V with just feeding it the one yellow wire.
Perhaps I have the wrong rectifier for this?