sledboy wrote:
Hoser:
Newbie here. I have owned an FL350 for about 20 years but have not done much with it for the last 10. Now I have a Pilot in the fleet but I want to revalve the rears.
I read your page about the rear shock:
http://pilotodyssey.com/stockrear.htmHow did you get the shock apart? I have rebuilt and revalved many snowmobile (Fox and Ryde) shocks. I have always been able to use a big Cresent wrench on the end cap to remove them. But it does not look like these end caps have anything to put a wrench on to remove them.
Also, is the nitrogen valve the same size as a regular car tire valve? In other words, can I refill the bladder with my air compressor JUST FOR TESTING purposes and refill it with nitrogen when I get it right?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Look at the first pic the parts are in order of assembly, you have the spring off and are down to just the chrome shock body?
Did you already blow off the nitrogen so your ready to take it apart? You don't want to take apart the shock until you remove the nitrogen its ok to take the spring off without touching the nitrogen I am talking breaching the system that contains the oil.
Their is a chrome dust cap that covers the shaft seal (red arrow) I think it unscrews take a small punch and SMALL hammer and tap tap tap the cap and unscrew it once the dust cap is off you will see the wire ring (blue arrow) it might be covered with dirt and crap take a old tooth brush and clean it up be careful not to damage the seal blow it out with compressed air I wouldn't use any solvents on it that might attack the seal if you need to wash it use soap and water, then take a pick and remove the wire ring being careful you don't damage anything around it, no scratching or gouging, like removing the blatter you might need to tap whats below the wire ring to get it out, take something that fits well and push it down, I would not use something sharp like a screwdriver I would use something like the end of your tooth brush, next is the bearing and seal assembly ( green arrow) next is the top out spring (pink arrow)
This is all going by memory I took this shock apart years ago if something don't look right or your not sure let me know I still have this shock some place and can go dig it out to refresh my memory.
The caps on the end of the shock reservoir are a tin cap pressed in I remove them by taking a thin sharp edge putty knife and a SMALL hammer and tapping them out around the edges the sharp edge of the putty knife will try to dig in to the metal and grip it so you can tap it out you will see what I mean when you try to remove it, you can run the shocks without the black dust covers they are like a hub cap on a car.
I charge the nitrogen to #190 the nitrogen is to keep the oil from foaming I don't know how much air pressure you can get in them the blatter is so small, if it has 190 lbs in it and you take a regular tire pressure gauge and try to read the pressure soon as you hear the psssst sound when you attach or remove it the pressure in the ballter will be down to almost nothing if not empty, so I don't know what your testing will be like just trying to use the air, you have nothing to loose by trying... but yes once you remove the dust cap its a regular fitting like a car tire and other ATV shocks you can service.
Have any more questions just ask.