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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
I reassembled your clutch and installed, you can see the clutch is well worn out and you can see all the rock hits that have accumulated on the clutch faces over the years.

Look around I could not find the aluminum plug that goes on the clutch where you remove the clutch bolt, I am not sure you sent it with the Engine, I have looked at all the pictures I took of the Engine and don't see it in any of the pics, just in case I took one off a clutch I have here and installed so it will not hold you up, if you still have yours please send to me when you get time so I can put it back on the clutch I have here.

Your Engine was boxed and shipped I sent you a copy of the receipt and the tracking numbers.

While your waiting on your Engine go look at the trans to see if your dowel pins have been damaged.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 12:45 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
Their must be 2lbs of grease inside that clutch since its sealed and they never break and wear out I wonder if all the grease could be removed and the parts coated with comet lube, this would make the Engine rev faster and less stress on the crank, or you think the grease acts as a automatic balancer and dampens vibrations?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 9:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
I sent the below by email but I will post it here also because not only is it important to you its good helpful info for others also and its info not found in the service manual.


Quote:
I shipped your Engine WITHOUT OIL in the balancer case, when I assembled your Engine I lubed up everything including everything in the balancer case, you will need to add the oil to the balancer before running the Engine

What I usually do is pour in the oil before installing the Engine then roll the Engine around at all angles to distribute the oil on all the parts so I know everything is coated real good then install the Engine and start as normal, naturally you will want to heat cycle the Engine so I usually check the balancer case oil level after the first heat cycle to ensure the oil level is correct and more importantly to ensure the oil is not foaming, some oils foam horribly, it helps to remove the oil fill cap and look into the case with a strong flashlight to observe the oil and check for foaming too, then for the first few ride trips or long rides after you get back check the vent tube to see if any oil is dripping out the vent, its been my experience if the oil is going to foam it will happen in a few minutes, checking after a long ride is just another precaution to take to ensure a long life out of the parts lubed and cooled by the balancer oil,
same holds true for the transmission you don't want oil to foam their either.



Also give this a read http://pilotodyssey.com/po/viewtopic.php?t=3114

How to "Break In" Your Newly Rebuilt Engine


If you have any questions or problems please let me know.

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:08 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
Thank you.

I have the plug and will send it to you when I send the balance of the shipping off. I plan to get the clutch and torque pipe in the very near future.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 7:58 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
I finally took the time away from the camaro to get the pilot Engine broke in or at least mostly broke in. I didn't think to get a compression tester from a friend until a couple rides into the break in. the compression now while cold is about 158 with the throttle open. Does that sound good? I have relocated the radiator, done the air box mod, and changed the main jet to a 145. it seams to be a tad bit rich from the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) plug chop. the outside temp was about 50 degrees. I can definitely feel a difference in the power, but the stock clutch I feel is killing all of the fun. I don't know if I should get a torque pipe or the clutch first. I am leaning towards the clutch. I am using yamalube 2R now at 20:1. I did break in with just regular 2 stroke oil at the 20:1.

Thanks again for the help, I can't wait to see what this thing will do with a clutch, pipe, and modified CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).

I was forced to use my daily driver for a tow rig after my K5 Jimmy suffered an ignition problem shortly after my Pilot went poofkaboom. I still need to take the time to fix that. with a 9 and 8 year old it is hard to do.

[/img]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 8:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22516
Location: Chicago
finallygot1 wrote:
I finally took the time away from the camaro to get the pilot Engine broke in or at least mostly broke in. I didn't think to get a compression tester from a friend until a couple rides into the break in. the compression now while cold is about 158 with the throttle open. Does that sound good? I have relocated the radiator, done the air box mod, and changed the main jet to a 145. it seams to be a tad bit rich from the WOT (Wide Open Throttle) plug chop. the outside temp was about 50 degrees. I can definitely feel a difference in the power, but the stock clutch I feel is killing all of the fun. I don't know if I should get a torque pipe or the clutch first. I am leaning towards the clutch. I am using yamalube 2R now at 20:1. I did break in with just regular 2 stroke oil at the 20:1.

Thanks again for the help, I can't wait to see what this thing will do with a clutch, pipe, and modified CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).

I was forced to use my daily driver for a tow rig after my K5 Jimmy suffered an ignition problem shortly after my Pilot went poofkaboom. I still need to take the time to fix that. with a 9 and 8 year old it is hard to do.

[/img]


If you get a chance post some close up pics of the air box and radiator mods.

Get the clutch before the pipe.

Compression is good, ride it MORE heh

HEI on the Jimmy? If so should be a cheap easy fix..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
It is a 87 Jimmy so it has an external coil still. I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, and ignition module since they were fairly cheap. The last time I took a second to work on it i found a piece of metal under the distributor cap. My dad said the distributor was probably bad the entire time. The truck is a pain to work on. it is just tall enough that I can't reach anything from leaning over the fenders. I am a big guy, 5'11" and 260 pounds and it makes it hard to set on the radiator support to work on it.

I will see if Ihave any pics of the radiator relocated. I still need to buy and mount some filters for the air box mod.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 9:11 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
This is all I have on my computer. It is nothing fancy as I am still learning to weld and fabricate metal. I work at a factory that has metal punches, lasers, and brakes so I will draw up a prefilter mount and see if I can get one of the guys to run them for me.


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