I tried installing the replacment boots (Honda number 53546-611-310 ) using saftey wire, zip ties and the spring clamp ideas previously brought up with no success, the boot would just slip of the narrow seating lip when the joint was swiveled around. I tried it with the spindle attached and it still didnt work.

I had just about given up when my wife walk into the garage and asked what I was doing. I explained it to her, like she would really understand. As she walked away she said "why don't you just super glue it on".....of course, I laughed and thanked her for the great idea....I think I got a "fine, if you don't want my help, don't ask any more from her.

Well after two or three more attempts mu way I figured what do I have to lose....beleive it or not I used a little Loc tite quick tite glue and I cant pull this thing off.....

Of course this hasnt been field tested but the boot is on there very well and I don't think it will come loose.


Now the big question, should I tell my wife she was right???? I hate it when she does crap like this....

Did you grease it real good before or after you installed the boot?
What about a small thin hose clamp?

I packed greased in the joint before I installed the boot. I also put grease up in the top of the boot away fromt the joint. Then I cleaned the seating area of the boot and the joint.

I don't think you could grease these after you attached the boot, it is sealed air tight around the stud.

If you do this don't forget to "burp" the boot while attaching the boot. I think it would burst the boot if you leave any air in there.

I think I will add a samll zip tie around the boot before installing jus tto give it a little extra support.

The other idea I had was to cut a thin slot around the outer diameter of the sealing lip with a dremel. I have some small cut off bits about a 32nd thick. I though with this groove you could use the zip tie and the boot would grip the slot. If the super glue doesnt work that will be my next option.

I couldnt find a radiator clamp thin enough, but I don't think that will work, the boot just doesnt have anything to grip to. The sealing area is machined smooth.

Are the boots made to slip over the bottom or are the designed to sit on top of the arm and not allow the water debris to go into the joint,wouldn't the pressure from tightening down the joint prevent the debris,etc from going into the joint?Also wouldn't that allow you access to the joint so you could grease it, I use an attachment on the end of my grease gun that's is commonly used to grease u joints on cvs that's works quite well, I just slip it into the boot through the bottom of the boot or I make a very tiny hole in the base of the boot and just push the fitting into the joint, I grease them every ride so I really don't have to worry about debris,etc getting into the joint,if any water gets into there it is pushed out when greased.

The base of the original boot is sort of like a grease seal, it presses on a machined rim around the base of the ball joint. The top part seals air tight around the stud ( a good thing,if air cant get in or out neither can water)

The replacement boots that Hoser mentioned are the same as the original on the top around the stud but the base is not set up to press on, they are held in place with a clip or ring of some sort. This is where the problem was, there was way for the base of the boot to seal on the joint, thus the attepms of the zip ties, saftey wire etc.

I have since installed all 6 (4 front 2 rear) boots and everything look good. For the rears there are actually 2 seating areas, these boots fit the larger one.

Here are a few pictures of the boots installed

and the rears

How do you post more then one picture at a time??? I did it with out trying earlier, not i want to and cant...whats up with that

The stock boots seem to be bonded to the arms they probably use a glue?

The pictures are not real clear but don't over grease the boots it will just
rupture them.

You find a boot for the rear upper A arm ball joint?

Add a picture then click "Add Attachment" page will act like it loads or something
then you add another picture like the first you added, once you have all the pictures
click the "Submit"

Pilot is looking nice when will it be done?

The original boot presses on just like an oil seal would. (didn't I say that before ). For you guys that just want to clean and lube your ball joints you could use a thin gasket scraper or something like that and remove the boot then just press it back on when you were finished.

The pictures are so clear on my computer, but I really had to down grade them (72dpi) to get them to load. Sucks being poor and not being able to afford DSL!!!!

I used the same boot on the upper rears (didnt I say that before ). If you look on the upper rears where the cir clip is there is a seating surface the exact same size as the one on the front ball joint. The boot fits there perfectly.

One piece of advice, figure out a way to separate the ball joint with out a pickle fork...this is what caused the whole thing for me, my boots were all good and I split everyone of them separating the joints.

The pilot was supposed to be done this weekend, as you can see I didnt make it. It is a lot closer then it looks as once to motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is in, the rest should go pretty quick. I hoping to have everthing back together by next weekend.

Grrr the pickle fork again why people keep buying them? yea they are fast and easy
but by design they tear up the rubber boots, you can see junk rubber boots coming
soon as you place it against the rubber and before you beat it with the hammer....
metal and hammer VS 1/16" thick rubber, metal will win every time....

The fork tool also tries to pop the ball out of the joint (destroy the joint)

I remove the nut on the ball joint and replace it with a nut your going to throw
away then I give the nut a good smack with a hammer, presto the ball joint falls
out and the rubber boot was never touched, this will also work on the rear ball
joint, NO stress put on the ball and socket of the ball joint, if you find the rear
ball joint wont come off just put a small wheel puller on
it, tighten a little then smack the end of the puller bolt with a hammer and presto
it falls off, you might want to put a piece of metal between the puller and end of the
shaft to keep it from damaging the end of the threads..

http://pilotodyssey.com/LTfront2.htm

Fixed link hoser..

These might work also. Guess you wont know until you try it? @5.00 a pair
http://www.energysuspension.com/tie_r.html

You figure out what ones you need? One of my rear ball joint seals got damaged, I cleaned it up
good and put a little silicone over the damaged area and it has held up well but I want to
change the boot if I can.

Stoneman said he ordered part number 9.13101R (R= Red)

Scratch the energy suspension replacement boot. only way to secure it to the arm is to glue it and I don't think it will hold long if at all.

I have concluded you will have to get a replacement boot the comes with a groove in the boot & the wire spring/clip that secures it.
Only way any thing will stay on the stock arm is to cut a small groove around the base of the shoulder of the stock arm. this will give the spring/wire clip a place to rest. The smooth stock shoulder wont hold anything on.
No groove,no work.
Someone prove me wrong ,please.

I made a press to remove the front ball joints from the spindle. The parts required are a 3/8" fine thread rod coupling (or nut) and a short bolt and a small flat washer. The ideal is to screw the bolt into the coupling and then place it between the upper and lower ball joint studs with the flat washer between the bottom of the coupling (or Nut) to protect the stub threads. Then with two 9/16" wrenchs (box to hold the coupling in place) back the bolt out to apply pressure to the ball joint studs. Most of the time the top one will pop first. Them add a nut as a spacer between the spindle and the tool to pop the remaining one. don't apply so much pressure as to tweak the spindle. If it does not pop right away use a hammer and smack the side of the spindle casting wear the taper of the ball joint seats. No damage to the boot and the tool is simple and very effective.

The OEM ball joint boots have a metal ring that is vulcanized to the boot (they put the ring in to the mold then inject the rubber so the parts are bonded). The ring is a press fit to the ball joint housing.

The official method to remove the ball joint has a forked clamp (looks like a large machinists clamp) that forces the stud up from the side with the nut. This insures that the boot is not damaged.

Here is the same part number DC posted he used on his boot install.
# 9

http://www.servicehonda.com/hard%20part ... nt_arm.htm

I was sifting through some of my archives and found this http://pilotodyssey.com/balljointseal.htm another unfinsihed page, don't remember where the info came from but the second part number looks like the wire ring in the link you provided part number #10 maybe it will work on the Pilot?

Also see http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?p=1411