My turn to jump on the case of oil out in the middle of the parking lot. I have been talking to Mudbogger in the chat room and throught PM's about his Engine noise. I have been in the toy repair business for quite a few years and have seen this many of times. There are many mistakes that are made when rebuilding a top end. If you look at Mudbogger's pix, you will see all the blow by on that piston. If you notice it comes over the crown and goes past the rings. If you look at the cylinder walls at the cross hatches, you will see how black it looks. That is massive blow by. For a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with only 20 hours on it it shows that somebody did not size this piston to the cylinder. A fresh bore is bore to piston size and then hone to piston clearance. Somebody spend a lot of time in the cylinder honing for the looks and never measured for piston clearance. They went too far on the hone.

For Mudbogger, for the amount of compression you say it has now and with the shape of the piston and the shape the reeds are in now, I think you are going to have a high compression motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) here. I think you should look at you head very carefully and see if it has been cut down and I would have deck height checked on that cylinder. I think you are going to find that a lot of work has been done to this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). This will mean it will be a race gas only motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) when it is back together. I am just trying to save you the trouble of having this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) rebuilt and then burning a hole in the top of the piston.

MGR, I cannot thank you enough for your postings, I have admittedly never seen a race gas cylinder before and havent had the pleasure of meeting you for that matter either, but I thank you so much for pointing this out for me.May I ask you --what would you do if this was your motor-if the jug is in fact a race jug would you (if applicable) still rebuild/run it with race fuel or replace the jug back to stock bore,piston etc?I am not racing the pilot and use it for more trail riding here in the northeast than dunes, etc.I was also going to sell it as well before the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) debacle, now selling it isnt an option.I do want to rebuild and leaving it as a race fuel only motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is an option as well.thanks for your reply,Mudbogger.PS GOT ANY GOOD PLACES TO SEND IT TO?

Hi Mudbogger how are you. First of all a race gas motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is not for everyone. All the time, effort and money put into them is not worth it for most people. If this motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is a race gas motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) you will have to make that decision. You need to find somebody that has stock head and mic it for you, then mic yours. This will tell you if your head has been cut down. Get with Hoser and let him walk you through how and where to take pixs. We need top, bottom, side view of the ports, coming in through the reed cage port. If you live close to Hare, I know he would help you out. He knows race motors. Cylinder, look at the top of the piston for markings for any size of it. This will give you an idea of where the cylinder is at. This is the old fashion way but in my opinion it is the still the best. Take your cylinder and ink the walls. A black marker will work, just let it dry. Then put a hone in your cylinder, dry, no oil. Give it a fast in and out hone once or twice only. If there are any windows in your cylinder they will show up right away. Plus you can see how deep the scratches are. Then you can go ahead and mic the walls. This way you can mic inside the windows to see how much you will need to bore to get the walls straight again. This way you can look up to see if there are any pistons available for the size you will have to go to. In other words, there is no reason to put any time or money into the cylinder if it is passed its last bore. Now is the time to look into the bottom of your Engine case for any unwanted, extra metal parts. If you read your manual it will tell you how to check for thrust washer wear on your rod. By doing these things you can make a good estimate on what you want to do with this Engine.