http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis30950.html

That is the tool you need. There are many other designs that I'm sure will work also but that it what I have.
I believe that no one on the planet has replace as many CV boots as I have on one vehicle, my Drakart. I believe I am "Indy car pit crew" material, yes that fast. The bands are somewhat cheap so just go buy some more and replace the bad bands you already tried to install, just be careful not to damage the new boot.

When reinstalling the new bands make sure you have at least 2 coils around the boot. Meaningthe band should be 2 layers thick, that makes it easier to tighten.

If I were you I'd replace all the boots to be on the safe side. Clean the cups, balls, spider and cage with brake cleaner and let dry. Then put the whole CV back together and cut a corner from the CV grease bag and stick it in the center of the spider and squeeze the bag till the grease starts to come out between the balls and cup. Slide the shaft, yes I said "SHAFT", with the cv boot already on it into the splined spider. This will force the more grease to push through the cage, balls and spider. Push the rest of the grease from the package into the boot and install the bands once the boot is slide over the cup. Do not install the inside band (Small band on axle side of all boots!) until you can push or ride the machine around just a little, or heck if you can just spin the wheels a hundred times to get the grease spread evenly through the cv's and then you need to "burp" the boot. Useing a very small DULL screwdriver carefully slide it between the shaft, yes that was me that said it, and the boot and release the built up air. Thus the name, "Burping the cv's".

Finish all the rest of the items needing replaced/fixed/adjusted/whatever and go ride.

Have fun,

Tom

Hey Speedy,

Did you not ever get the guards for your CVs? Since I put them on ol' blue, I have almost never needed to replace a boot.

Hmm....I need to do that. Thanks for the reminder. Can you remind me again in a couple moths after the shack is done. You know how forgetful I am!

tOM

Alain made them, call him and get a pair, takes about five minutes to do them. 951-372-1366

Thanks everyone. I've seen this tool, but figured I can do the job without it. Wrong. This makes things sooo much easier, it even cuts the band. I wish I bought this 2 months ago. Got my cv work done with no headaches.


Here's that bent bolt. It does change the geometry if i rotate it. I just reinstalled it and turned it to its happy place.


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Question: I'm 6'3", and being a para my legs just sit whereever they want. The wheel hits me legs when I turn it. I've been looking for a solution, either adjusting the wheel, and/or giving my legs more room lengthwise. My seat cannot go further back, and I've taken out the rubber mat long ago.

Option A: What would making and adjustment with brackets like this do to my steering?


Option B: How to close this gap at the front of the tub and frame? Every millimeter helps. I've thought about cutting the tub in a few key spots then strapping the plastic to the frame to pull that gap closed.



Finnally, a little photochoppin.

Lee can probably tell you what the affects of changing the angle of the steering column would be, look where the tie rods attach as you turn it right to left.

I think with the after market seat you lose clearance over the stock seat also, the cheapest and easiest IMO would be to remove the seat cover and all the foam and see what you can do to modify the seat to set further back.

I am 6' 1" I have the use of my legs and always found it a real bitch getting into and out of a Pilot with a after market seat.

Years ago a buddy of mine modified his Pilot to race the SODA Lite class, while he had the top cage changed to comply to their rules he had the frame behind the seat stretched 3" he is 6' 3" tall he never ran the stock plastic again so it didnt matter to him.

http://pilotodyssey.com/kurt.htm

I finished those light switches.

Sorry for the slow reply, work has been a little thick this week. It is possible to move the steering column up a little but… You need to watch the bearing at the bottom of the column. That bearing dose not want to see any twist load.

Two possibilities come to mind, neither is easy. You could put a second bearing 6” above the lower one and install a U-joint. This will introduce some non-linearity in to the rotation of the steering but the net effect may not be noticeable. Doing this dose not effect the location of the center steering arm so there is no effect to the steering geometry.

The second idea is to change the angle of the lower bearing by moving the housing, or replacing it with a self aligning bearing. You may be lucky and find a bearing that drops in (bore and out side diameter matches the original bearing). I am attaching a link to show the type of bearing but I did not screen this for application.

http://www.ntnamerica.com/pdf/A1000/A1000_SelfAlign.pdf

Or you could find a way to mount one of the agricultural bearings with a spherical housing. Be careful and make sure the angle is acceptable and the bearing is protected from mud / water. With this solution the steering geometry will be changed a little bit. It is difficult to know if the change will be noticeable or not. Be sure to check that the wheels will not ‘over center’ and lock at full turn (see my test method as explained to TurboTexas about testing his lawyer link system).

To me, the idea of adding 3” to the frame dose not sound too bad. It solves the problem, doesn’t affect the suspension and is fairly easy to understand. The only issue with this is the change in length of the control cables and brake line (apart from the first saw cut in to a perfectly good frame).

Thanks for the full answer, but lengthening the frame does seem to be the best solution. For now things will stay as is, but I won't ever be selling my pilot so there's always the future.

Nice pics from Buttercup Mike. Jimbo is sending me a disc. Hoser, that's the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) that was built by Pete Garrison (Alabama) and assembled by Mr Keefe. It was done quite some time ago and therefore I don't recall what all we decided on. I think we let Pete run with it for the most part? As Mike has said, the Engine has been trouble free and the car still runs strong. However, Mike and I have discussed the need for more power. It's an addiction issue