He just says A radiator drain plug from a 1988 through 2003 Ford F150. try a few auto parts stores I would start at a NAPA if I was looking.

Have a junk yard or radiator shop close to home maybe shoot for a used one?

Aftermarket "Dorman Help" Part number is 61127
Aftermarket "Motormite" Part number 490-218.1

This is a very common radiator drain plug and it is used in numerous applications by Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda and Nissan. Any auto pars store will carry these. There are millions of vehicles on the road that use this drain plug.

Rand

is the diffuser you found easily found at a parts store? or maybe a welding supply house for air compressors???

And is plugging the vent above the starter required? Wouldn't you want that side of the case to vent too??? just for cooling purposes if anything...

The diffuser I got from McMaster Carr. It has a 40 micron filtration rating which is 0.00157 inches. Below is the link to the page listing diffusers.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#compressed-air ... rs/=8ouzzo

As far as the other side, I have it sealed with a screw inserted in the vent line per Randy's instruction. Now that I think about it, the atmosphere in the stator side it going to expand the same as the oil side. I am going to put another vent on the other side also......couldn't hurt!

Rand

My only worry is with how do I check the oil level if I replace the dipstick with the vent...
knowing me I would lose the dipstick...

I just put my dip stick inside my tool kit. It fits nicely inside the factory plug wrench.......nicely protected!

Rand

What's a tool kit??? Are we supposed to have one??? LOL

Yeah, It's that little black box thingy that's bolted to the side of the frame that is usually empty when you buy your Ody!

Amazingly, both of my Ody's had full tool kits! Unfortunately, the wife's had cracked mounting tabs. One of these days I'll replace it or put another type of toll box on it. I was thinking about using the PVC pipe option bolted to the frame.

Rand

I need to do that soon on them both!!!

Ok I did this mod and aint happy with how it is reacting! I used clear tubing for the sole reason of making sure oil isn't traveling up the vent tube and it is! Checking randys site he puts a big ol filter near the plug to collect the oil? My thinking is there is too much oil leaving to gears and they might get hot and melt? This much oil in tube aint good???

It might look like a lot of oil but the tubing is pretty small ID. I bet it's only 1-2 ounces. Before changing the setup you mightwant to try a different oil. Your current oil might be foaming too much. What kind of oil are you using?

I'm no expert on this but every one of these issues I have read about (oil running up through the overflow tube) is on brand new top end rebuilds. I am guessing there may be an issue with the oil pressure is building up in the ballancer area because of blow by generated before the rings seat. I may have had the issue of oil running up the line when I first rebuilt mine but I couldn't tell because I ran the bellows system with the black non transparent hose. As you know I am now running the diffuser not the bellows and I am not having an issue with oil exiting the diffuser.

Remember with any mechanical seal of this type they are not air tight when the crankshaft is rotating.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

Rand

If the crank seal was leaking sooner or later you would be smelling gas in the balancer.

Remove the filler cap and start the Engine see what the oil is doing.

well after a short easy drive this was puking oil way up the 5-6 fot of 2\3/16" hose... I triple checked my fluid to insure I didn't over fill...

A hose that small will have a hard time draining back. Even if you need an adapter go from 3/16 to at least 3/8. Try to go straight up with the line. What kind of oil are you using?

Also turbo did you ever get those shock measurements?

My ADOS (Attention Deficet-Ohhhh Shiny) made me forget all about the shocks!!!
I will try tuse the biggerhose, but I don't want the oil migrating up, I want it in the gear area!!! Where it belongs...

What kind of oil are you using?

Honda gn 4

Hey Dave, try getting rid of the loop you have in the line. It may be acting like a sink drain and not allowing the oil to flow back down the hose back into the ballancer cavity.

Rand

the problem is keeping the oil in the gear case! without the loop it will still rise to the filter!!!
should the hole on the gear side be plugged? instead of the flywheel side? is there a p[lace in the path that is being pressurized? I don't think its heat making the oil swell/expand this much???

When I pull the wife's apart for the rebuild I'm going to plug the hole on the ballancer side and the stator side. IMO the oil can still work it's way into the vent cavities in the top of the cases unless it is plugged at the source.

It's a long shot and I don't know if it's possible but maybe the ballancer cavity is being pressurized due to a base gasket leak? What base gasket did you use and what type of sealant did you use to adhere it to the crank case and the cylinder base?

Rand

ask hoser... I think a vesra base gasket... I do have honda base gaskets at home, but no head gaskets...I am sure hoser pressure tested this before he sent it to me!

If Hoser put it together you can bet it's solid. So much for that idea.

Now I'm wondering if the bellows is a necessity. I have seen instructions from Randy stating that you can use just the filter in line and not the bellows (see attached picture). Oil is a lot more viscus than the fuel these filters are designed for and they may work to hold back the oil from running up the tube. I would try putting an additional filter about 6" up from the vent plug.

http://f812.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download? ... y&inline=1

Rand

Hey Dave, you still having the oil flow up the vent tube issue? Tried moving the filter yet?

Rand