I am on the road, and the ody is at home!

All work and no play makes Dave a dull boy!

But then again you gotta work to pay them bills to have play toys!

Let us know when you get to work on it again!

Rand

I'm not sure this really fits in here, but does this ok??





It's threaded into the side cover and it snugged up real nice, but I went ahead and put a little JB Weld on the inside of the cover for a little extra insurance.

Just a tip I have learned. Don't use brass fittings anywhere there will be a lot of vibration. They often crack from vibration. You can usually find the same fittings in steel.

Thanks, I will see what I can come up with.

Rarerat, I don't know for sure but you may have the vent too low and it might be below or just at the level of the oil in the case when it's full. Attached it a picture for the modification by the master Rand Bridgewater.

I am also curious why you didn't just use the modified Ford petcock design. You know the petcock I used does fit other vehicles other than a Found On Road Dead! You can say it's from a Nissan!

Rand

For those of you that are having problems with oil puking out of the vent I believe I have figured out why.

1.) If you use a bellows as I originally did, the bellows keeps the oil contained within the system (doesn't leak as it is sealed air tight). The bellows expands slightly to compensate for the heat buildup but not allowing oil to travel up to the bellows because there is little to no air movement up the hose.

2.) If you use the vent alone at the end of the line attached to the vent, you must run a large enough sized hose to allow the air to travel up the hose and not push the oil up with it.

Hotrod hit the nail on the head when he stated "A hose that small will have a hard time draining back. Even if you need an adapter go from 3/16 to at least 3/8."

I decided to do some experimentation this weekend and used 1/8" ID hose with just the vent at the end of the hose.......well guess what happened......Oil puked from the vent. I would say that if you are going to run the smaller hose that is attached to the inside of the modified FORD petcock then you would need to place a fuel filter in line to allow the expanding air to work it's way past the oil that has been trapped in the line. Note the system that Jim327 is using to better illustrate what I mean.

Maybe speedchaser can machine some aluminum fill plugs with a built in large nipple on top. It seems the 1/8 is too small and is not letting it burp properly

That would be excellent! I have spent probably 3+ hours on this project just trying to find a plug that would work which is easily modified by those of us with simple hand tools. I have managed to find an M14 x 1.5 threaded fitting with a nipple but not the proper M14 x 2.0 thread.

The difficulty of finding the proper thread is the only reason I opted to use the Ford radiator petcock.

Rand

OK I will throw you guys a Bone

1)find a short 14mm x 2 bolt they make them every day
2)next get some brake line to fit your hose that your going to use (up to 3/8 no bigger)
3) Drill a hole smaller then the brake line just about threw the center of the bolt a small drill all the way threw
(: note we do not want the piece of brake line to fall in the Engine :)
4) pound a short piece of the brake line in like a nail
5) put o-ring on bolt
now you A Red Neck 14mmx 2 hose barb



SpeedChaser

awww, you beat me to it speed!

We want something pretty. No more Jerry rigging!

I was going to get a bolt and then drill a hole through it and the tap it for a 1/4" NPT thread.

Knowing my luck, the red neck brake line barbed fitting would leak.

Rand

nothing wrong with red-necking rand, unfortunately with alot of things i don't have much choice here

I definitely see you have an issue in Qatar. You just can hop in the car and drive to the local fastenal store! What really pisses me off is that the local fastenal store can't get fittings like this!

By the way....when you're talking Red Neck, if you look in the dictionary under the listing of "Red Neck", it say's see Rand!

Red Neck #1

What size NPT are you guys using? you could use a solid 90 instead of a two piece it would make it look allot cleaner, they make them in brass, chromed brass, and anodized aluminum if it was me I would run the anodized aluminum just looks cleaner (my 2 cents)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-984208ERL/" ."..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GAR-J9033/" ."..

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2271/" ."..


I just listed a few you can find what ever size you need.

Thanks Rand, the bottom of the fitting is 1&1/2 inches higher than the full mark on the dip stick, so I thought it would be ok.

I don't have anything against Ford, I actually own a couple, but SShhhhh don't tell anyone, I just thought since I had the Engine out and tore down I would just drill the case so I could leave the dip stick in.

Thanks, I just grabbed the ones I have at our local Home depot but they did have the greatest selection. At first I bought a 1/4 fitting to screw into the elbo and it is the one shown in the pics, but after reading what everyone said I am replacing it with a 3/8.

I don't have anything against Ford, I actually own a couple, but SShhhhh don't tell anyone, I just thought since I had the Engine out and tore down I would just drill the case so I could leave the dip stick in.

It does make it easier to check the oil level with the dip stick already in! On mine I have to loosen a hose clamp and then pull the hose off and then remove the plug and then drop the dip stick in. It can be a pain in the ass if you check your stuff frequently!

I'm a Dodge and Chevy guy myself but don't tell anyone I drive a Ford F350 motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) home!
My last Chevy muscle car was a 71 Nova.....I referred to it as Novacane, the painless kill! My buddy had a 69 RS Camaro. Spent many an hour wrenching on both of them with great pleasure!

Rand

I have always considered myself a Chevy guy, but I drive a dodge truck everyday, have a few old Camaro's & A Chevelle, and even have a few old fords stashed away. If it's 60's or early 70's American iron, chances are I like it.

im a newbie with no Engine experience. can i do this mod without having to open up Engine??

No you can not access the vent hole from the outside of the Engine, however there is very little that you need to do to access the area.

1.) On the opposite side of the Engine case from the dip stick you will find a large cover plate that shields the stator area. This is where the vent for the ballancer is located.

2.) Remove the stator cover plate. There is a very good diagram of the cover plate and the hardware that secures it in section 7-0 of the service manual.

3.) The hole's position is about the 2 O'clock location (upper right side of the stator).

4.) Make sure the hole is good and clean (free of ballancer oil). Fill the hole with some silicone and then run a self tapping machine screw into the hole.

5.) Put the cover back on.

6.) You will need to wait for 24 hours before running the Engine to make sure the silicone sets completely.

I took the day off so I could put my 350 all back together. I got it all fired up & did a couple heat cycles and then took it for a short 1/4 throttle ride. I had filled the oil all the way up to the top fill mark & so far I don't see any hint of oil in the vent filter so I am really hoping my 5 dollar Home depot vent mod will be OK.



Do you all see anything that looks wrong with it & needs to be changed?

Thanks,
Nick

It's nice to be able to see if the oil travels up the site glass but I would be a little paranoid running a glass filter housing. That's just me though.....paranoid! I believe Jim327 is running the same setup and I haven't heard if he has any issues with his yet.

After you do your break in go out and run it hard for about 5 minutes and let us know how it works. Mine didn't puke oil out of the diffuser until the bottom end got good and warmed up.

Rand

Sounds good Rand, thanks.

is there any pictures online step by step on how to get at the balancer vent??