i moved from mikes board to here so i don't have to logg in every time i post so this may not make sence to first time readers/

hoser, so i have to much and to slow of air going into the carb so it wont pull fuel correctly?
im also going to change to your board because i have to log in eveytime i want to respond so look for this reply over there! thank for you help!

I don't have to log in every time I post when I go to Mikes then again I never did the sign up thing on his page I just post, you might ask Mike there might be a setting to auto log you on each time, I would not quit using his board because of a minor annoyance thing I would figure it out... it is probably just a setting thing you over looked?

My reply on Mikes page was
" Hmmm see you could be causing or creating your own your own problems with the home made air filter setup, the stock intake boot as with all ATV's and motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) cycles is tapered from the air box to the carb they taper it down to speed up the air as it enters the carb so it will properly pull the fuel from the carb gets, you need this convergence to make it work properly I would search out ebay for a stock air cleaner parts, if it is a modified machine running your setup can be ok because modified machines require more air but your whole carb calibration will probably need changed to work with your system, on my 250 when I went to a bigger carb I used the intake tube from a FL350 so it would fit the bigger inlet bell on the bigger carb but it still has the convergence needed to maintain the carb signal, modified intakes can have their advantages but they can also create a bunch of problems."

Again I said "could be" it is hard to diagnose things like this over the internet I do know that manufactures go to great lengths and expense to develop the tapered intake boots and air boxes the carb relies on a pressure differential to work eliminating the taper boot allows more air flow but with less velocity, less velocity = less ability to pull fuel form the carb, less performance.

You need to check the jetting on your Engine to see if you have a jetting problem, if the jetting is ok you need to check the inside of the Engine to see if the top of the piston and head has a layer of carbon that is causing your problems.

pulled head, no carbon, what was there wiped right off. everything else looked brand new.piston and cylinder.

took carb apart again, all jets stock #'s 58, 120, and 200.
did find the e-clip set wrong on slide needle(top groove not middle) and air bleed screw was turned all the way in, now 2 turns out per book.

reset float height a bit higher, by eye, couldnt find float height measurement.
now have to get new head gasket to see if it runs better, or can i re use it? it looks like new.

any advise?

What type of gasket, copper, dark gray graphite? I have reused both...

dark gray graphite, i re used it and it seems to work but im still not sure on carb settings

the needle e-clip was on the 2nd groove, i mooved it to the middle.
the float was setto shut off the needle and seat pretty low in the bowl, i adjusted that so theres more fuel in the bowl.

and the air bleed screw was bottomed out, its now out 2 turns.

i also modofied my air intake tube so it cant collapse anymore.

but she now doesnt want to stay running, im going to recheck the carb 1 more time.

have good compression, and great spark, its now fuel.

ill keep you posted

do you have a manual? float level has to be quite close to specs.air mixture screw at 1-1/2 - 2 turns out,third (middle setting on the needle ).float level setting is 20mm or 0.79into top of the float ,NGK br7es plug is recommended but an br8es will work fine & fuel mixed at 32:1 w/good oil(honda,golden spectro,yamalube etc.

20mm or 0.79 in. to the top of the float

yep i have that manual, and i think ive ruled out carb and head problems now.

i think its in the timing, heres my reasoning: it only pops on the top end of acceleration.
the run on was a lean condition i think cause by the hos on the crank case blowing off when it back fired. ive fixed that, did a compression check its at spec, and run adjusted the carb as rich and lean as possible and the popping still occurs. the final settings i ended up with on the carb were 1 1/2 turns out and the needle clip set in the middle.

then i got ambitious/stupid........
another buddy said it sounded like it was firing earlyat higher rpm. i told him it didnt have point and that i didnt think we could adust it. man was i wrong. it did have points uike what i was told by the previous owner and i messed with them. i took the advance/cam sleeve off the flywheel to set the points (3mm) but i don't think i did it right, the mark on the edge of the cam i thought should line up with the keyway. well it ran but not right so i took it back off and rotated it 180. wrong move, my arm is 4" longer now from it kicking back. i still think its in timingbut the book isnt real clear. and sugestions for this idiot?

i also added pics of my odyssey, and with the way this is going odyssey is a good word for it!

You may be causing your own problem with this much restriction on your air filter and hose

this is definetly an earlier oddy and unless changed would have points.put all the ignition back together.The points can be adjusted from outside the flywheel with the recoil removed .Build a test light like in the book with the batteries and a light bulb,its quick and no need to worry about the gap specs with this light setup.lightly tighten the point set and put your flywheel on the timing mark shown.Now lightly adjust the points with your screw driver till the light dims,tighten down lightly and rotate the flywheel 360 degrees, back to the timing mark and recheck ,making sure the timing mark is set correctly and the light just dims when you come onto the timing mark.points will be set at that point.I would also get yourself a stock airbox boot and airbox so you don't have any restrictions at all. I think i may have an airbox(the earlier one) and maybe a boot,i'd have to check.

also make sure you have all grounds attached,and make sure you ground the block to the frame!

ill do what the book says and make the tool. if you have an airbox assembly let me know, this didnt come with one at all so that's why i built what i have on it. i am in mpls mn so im not that far from you guys.

As for the ground i didnt even think of that. that could cause a misfire in the ignition. ill make sure there is one.

thanks to everybody who has given me advise on this. it was a x-mas present for my 11yr old son and i want to make sure it runs right so he can have fun on it trail riding with me.

plus if i get this figured out i can go back to my original project of a odyssey copy with a kawasaki 400 motorcycle Engine for me! its a beast!

check the book for all grounds ,you will need one for the ign.switch and one off the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) going to the frame,coil too. 440 hey, like this one.The Bumble Bee.Exhaust and manifold have been changed along with the intake and filter.

COOL! That must be a blast on the ice! Electric or pull start? GOt me excited, I want to go build one now!

i hope i didnt twist the crank as is posted elsewhere on this site. like i said it kicked hard and back fired when i had the cam 180 off!

As for my home grown beast im rebuilding, ill have pics as soon as i get this one running correctly.

yeh a ton of fun on the ice,she'll do 60ish even with the oversized drive belt.electric start! It's for sale.

being that the timing is off the cylinder may have been loaded up causing the hard compression.the crank may not be hurt at all .make sure the timing is right first.

How Much!? Wisconsin......long drive.....

i can try to get some recent pics and info ,drive would be long i think ,your up in canada arent you? email me at [url]tsutton@wi.rr.com

you got mail