You usually do not torque the lugs for a dayton (open wheel). You need to set the run out of the wheel/tire assembly to 1/16th to 1/8th inch, while working your way around the rim and tightening each lug/dawg assembly as you go. Once you have the run out to where you want it, then you sock down the lugs with a 1/2" impact gun. Also make sure to center the tire valve stem between the webbs of the hub assembly and or line up the old paint marks on the rim with the hub. DOT inspectors have been known to write up and red tag a vehcle for loose lugs because of the paint marks don't line up. If you want to put a torque wrench on them for peace of mind then SAE specs for a 3/4" bolt grade 5 is 260 ftlbs. Use no oil and definatly no never seize on these studs.

"Use no oil and definatly no never seize on these studs. "

Because, when anti-seize, oil, grease or any other type of lubricant including WD-40 is used, the torque is actually being applied to that lube rather than to the fastener.

There are some really interesting things in Carroll Smith's "Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook"... it's definitely worth buying. Some brief info from the book:

1) Over-tightening is better than under-tightening. An under-tension bolt failed at 4,900 cycles and an identical bolt that was over-tightened failed at over 6,000,000 cycles! (See book for details.)

2) Worst case torque situation is "dry & unplated" where 50% of the applied torque can be used up overcoming the friction between the bearing surface and the work face and another 40% can be used up overcoming thread friction... leaving only 10% of the torque to pre-load the bolt!

3) Critical tension asseblies (cylinder heads, rod bolts) require special fasteners and each such fastener normally has it own recommended torque value and lubricant to arrive at the correct level of residual stress. (Residual stress is what matters, not how much torque we apply to get it there.)

4) The torque required to produce a given tensile stress varies with plating, lubrication, length of engaged thread, and class of thread fit. We need to achieve an installed tensile stress that is just below the yield strength of the bolt.

definatly use oil or assembly lube. that's why studs are so much better than bolts. a nut threading onto a stud has far less friction than a bolt threading into the base metal under a torque load. the stud and nut will achieve and hold a truer torque setting and there fore more accurate clamping load. just look at auto Engine rod bolts the best way to tighten them is with a stretch guage reagardless of the torque load.

Forgot..

IMO if you have a fastner that your worried about it coming lose then you need to apply loctite or another locking device to the threads not torque it dry, I seen lots of damaged threads because of galling, I seen lots of threads fail because of rust.

This is why the industry is doing away with a standard nut to hold on a wheel. Just about all the new wheels are are hub piloted and use a securex nut that is torqued to 450ftlbs. This nut utilizes a locking mechanism built into it, and it has a rotating cup that allows the torque to be applied to itself and not the wheel surface that it is trying to clamp down on. Basically a two piece nut.

The oiled torque spec of your lug nut is 360 ft lbs.

Common sense tells you t o put never seize on the stud, but when you deal with the government and laws, common sense goes out the window.