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| Muddbogger Pilot Engine Prep For Assembly and CSI http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=495 |
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:45 pm ] | ||
| Post subject: | Muddbogger Pilot Engine Prep For Assembly and CSI | ||
Everything needs cleaned and prepped before use when rebuilding. Pilot Engine Rebuild Bearings come coated with a protectant not a lubricant so the bearings are carefully washed and allowed to air dry don't be a moron and use compressed air to dry them, then they are oiled well with amsoil and put back into the package they came in.
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:46 pm ] | ||
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All that black stuff came off the crank and out of the rod bearing.
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:48 pm ] | ||
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Same for the piston pin and bearing.
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:49 pm ] | ||
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The piston is full of sharp edges so it is prepped before use http://12.215.127.130/pistonprep.htm
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:51 pm ] | ||
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The piston is coated with something that fills the machine marks that are intended to hold oil on the skirt of the pistons using a FINE stainless brush and lite pressure you can clean the grooves on the skirt of the piston, once done you can see and feel the difference.
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon Apr 05, 2004 3:52 pm ] | ||
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Damaged wires suck, I will have to clean and solder them back together .
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:19 pm ] | ||
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After the cases were lapped they were washed first with carb cleaner then hot soapy water, then dried and washed again with carb cleaner to ensure the grit from the lapping compound has all been removed .
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:22 pm ] | ||
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You can see shiny spots that is areas that are still low, trying to chase them down would just reduce the case separation you need between the crank lobes and bearings, there is no telling if this lapping has been performed in the past on these cases I will find out when the bottom end is assembled.
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 2:23 pm ] | ||
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The other case.
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 4:49 pm ] | ||
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With the cases heated to about 150 degrees in the oven and the bearings in the freezer the bearings almost fall into the cases. Once the bearings are in place and you ensure they are seated you pull the cases together using the home made Big Tom Pilot Crank Pulling Tool hehe Big Tom did a great write up on bottom end rebuilding (first on the web for a Pilot?) so please take the time to read it http://www.dirtcheapracing.com/tech/bottom/
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 4:51 pm ] | ||
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Rubber bands are used to support and control the rod during assembly, the crank is well oiled and pulled into the left case half.
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 4:54 pm ] | ||
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Then I applied Yamabond to both sides of the gasket on this Engine since the cases were not all that great, I know it will seal easily as is I am worried about after a few hundred heat cycles what will happen. When you pull the cases together you need to ensure it pulls straight and even you also want to make sure you don't get a rag between the cases when it comes together heh
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| Author: | hoser [ Wed Apr 07, 2004 5:57 pm ] | ||||
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More
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon May 17, 2004 10:51 am ] | |||
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This project was stalled for a while due to the availability of a new cylinder, finally I got all the parts I needed to finish the assembly of Muddboggers Engine and to pressure test it, for shipping I lined a box with 1-1/2 " foam board then a layer of card board to protect the foam board then the Engine was put into a plastic bag and into the box then I sprayed a few cans of that home foam around the Engine so it cant move while in transit.
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| Author: | litespeed [ Mon May 17, 2004 4:56 pm ] |
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Very professional, if i do say so myself! |
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| Author: | mudbogger [ Mon May 17, 2004 6:12 pm ] |
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Youre right that's fringin so smart-I need to think that way in the future, thanks for the perfet job Hoser, I cannot wait to post the motors performance, etc in the coming weeks!!!Also, A big thanks to Hare, Pman for there help in this mess, without there and everyones help I would/could be out of alot more money then I needed to spend, it is a tribute to all here on this board,THANKS GUYS. |
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| Author: | mudbogger [ Mon May 17, 2004 6:24 pm ] |
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What were the final tolerances Hoser on that cylinder and piston Hoser on that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?That cylinder was a B cylinder,did you use the b piston as well with it or the a piston? |
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| Author: | hoser [ Mon May 17, 2004 10:41 pm ] |
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I used the A piston Trevor says Honda no longer makes a B piston and the B piston part number has now changed to the A piston part number, you can still get the C piston. Cylinder measured 3.1479 piston measured 3.1440 giving you a .0039 clearance ring end gap for both rings was .020 the deck of your cylinder or distance between the outside edge of the piston to the top of the cylinder is .022 Your Engine will be shipped with no oil in the balancer case you must add oil before running, the wires on your harness were cut and nicked I suspect it was from the other guy removing and installing the Engine special care must be taken when you install the Engine it is best to set the Engine in place then lift the front of the Engine and hold it up with a strap or something so you can route the harness where it belongs then lower the front of the Engine and install the Engine mount bolts, spcial care is also required for the plates that go between the Engine and trans you must ensure they are in the dowl pins on the Engine before you tighten the bolts if not you wil crush the dowl pins and not even know it this is what lines up the Engine with the trans, I usually position the Engine and install the plates pushing them all the way on the dowl pins by hand to ensure they are fitting right then install the bolts, it is a pain in the ass but it must be right. |
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