Hey folks I got some more questions about my FL350, I want to check my seals in the Engine and I have got to the one behind the flywheel and stator. I am going to do a pressure test but I know that I will have to seee them to check them.

So here goes the questions:
1.are the seals the same part (or size) behind the stator and the clutch?

2.The seal that is inside of the L/S cover for the crankshaft, is it the crankcase seal that if it leaks will cause lose of power, bogging and overall performance drop in the Engine? I know that the seal on the R/S behind the stator will cause the same result along with weak spark (due to oil coating the flywheel, stator and pick-up areas). Or would it be the seal behind the clutch that will cause the loss of power?

3. Has anyone tried to cross reference the seals due to some of them being discontinued?

4.I noticed the other week that when I had the breather disconnected from the carb. if I throttle it up when I get past 1/2 throttle it will start to blow back through the carb. somewhat. Could this be due to weak reeds or is it normal?

I know that I may not have described them by the right name but I haven't worked on two strokes in over 20 yrs so I am alittle bit rusty but I know the knowledge is on here, all I have to do is ask and someone on here will know. Any help is appreciated.

1.) No, the clutch size is considerably larger.
2.) The loss of a seal on either side of the case will effect Engine performance and can cause a lean condition and an Engine failure.
3.) Seals and bearings are available. This was just the first check on evilbay. I'm sure they are available elsewhere.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ODYSSEY-3 ... _500wt_715
4.) If you are experiencing air passing backwards through the carb then you have a reed sealing problem. Pull and inspect your reed cage. You may have a broken pedal.

Rand

You only need to see the seals if your Engine fails the pressure test.

Now would be a good time to check your reeds condition it almost seems like they are talking to you 'check me' but don't be surprised if you remove them and find they are in great condition I have seen some 2 strokes at the right RPM not closing and spitting back as you describe because of the port timing and return pulse wave from the pipe.

Study the green pulses in the Engine and pipe for an idea what is going on might not reflect exactly what your Engine is doing you get the idea what happens inside these engines.



I just did a pressure test thing the other day perhaps you have seen it? http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=9826 any questions please ask.

You have a manual?

FL350 Odyssey parts page please contribute if you buy parts.

ASK BEFORE BUYING ANY PARTS!!!!!!! check with us before you buy their are more and more parts whores selling any shit they can get their hands on to make a buck now days...

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewforum.php?f=39

All bearings and seals quality and design is NOT the same, have been seeing parts whores selling 6.00 china bearings for 40.00 + bux as "discontinued Honda" replacements.

Thanks randman for the advice, I think I need to look on ebay more but I hate that site. It has ruined alot of small companies. I pulled the reeds and couldn't see any problems, I checked the sealing of them by spraying some wd40 on the inside. some seeped out but not much, I looked for that. It took about 1-2 mins for it to seep out.

Some pressure will get by the reeds. Honda designed the air box on the FL models with this in mind. If you watch the top of the air box when the Engine is running at a slow rpm, you can actually see the top of the cover pulsate. This is known as resonance pulse and is all a part of how a 2 stroke operates.

Like Hoser said, carefully watch the diagram and you can watch the air flow. You can also get an idea of just how sloppy a 2 stroke really runs. There's an awful lot of un-burnt fuel that exits the exhaust pipe if the Engine is not set up correctly.

Rand

Ok done the pressure test and it failed, I can feel it and hear coming from behind the clutch. Thanks for the illustration hoser that shows alot. Also I am using a after market filter system on it. It didn't come with any kind of a filter on it. When I replace the seal on the L/S cover I am going replace the one on the R/S also. Do you have to split the case to replace the seal that is inside of the L/S or can it be done without separation? Oh and I downloaded a manual, haven't had a chance to go thru it yet but that will give me something to do later. Randman you are right his illustration does show alot.

You can replace the seal without splitting the case however you do have to remove the clutch.

Rand

The bad news is the left crank seal is discontinued from Honda. I have bought 2 sets of the bearings and seals that are in the ebay link. The first set sealed up the first Engine, but the second set failed on the clutch side. I bought a seal from Randy and it did seal up, but his was no different than the repo seals I got in the ebay auctions. I did find another seller that had repo seals on ebay and bought a couple for spares. They look like an improvement from what I got from randy and the seals that were in the bearing/seals kits on ebay, but still nowhere near Honda quality. I have yet to need them so I cant really vouch for them, but they are less expensive then buying for some of the other vendors.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150489180695#ht_4537wt_1165"

It was not discontinued by Honda of Canada from what I hear. Would any of our friends up north want to ship us a bulk order? You can buy the other seals at your local dealer. $8-9 each.

If someone is doing a bulk order I will take 4 of them seals

I would take 3 myself. I plan on a complete rebuild this winter if the compression test is ok. But I have a local distrubutor that can cross about anything and I have had really good luck with them on alot of bearings and seals in the past so Monday I plan on taking these seals in and letting him try. Maybe Luck will work out again!

Found my leak! It was the hose that comes from the Engine case on the L/S to the fuel pump. When I bought it it came with a aftermarket fuel tank (Gravity feed) and someone left the fitting open. Sealed off and pressure tested, held 8psi for 10 min. So I think I am safe now.
On the R/S of the case behind the flywheel cover (not inside) is a inspection plug that comes out, I am sure somebody knows what that is for?

It's the timing port inspection plug.

Rand

Thanks just checking. Hopefully I will be able to start the puppy up today and see how it runs.

have you fired it up yet?

Ok I started my 350 up today and it still wasn't running good, so I started running down my opions. finally found that the pitcock was mostly stopped up. Cleaned it and that helped alot but I have to start it with the throttle wide open and I noticed that fuel is coming out of the exhaust. Also I had to run the slide stop in all of the way to get it to idle. I think tomorrow I will pull the carb and check the float level and make sure it is clean. But after cleaning the pitcock it did run alot better. Any ideas? Also does anybody have any of the old seals (that have been pulled out) of the crankcase? I have a friend that works at a company that said if I can get the #'s that are on the seal he can cross it come up with a good quality seal. I gave him the sizes but he needs the info off of the seal itself to get the same quality part.

Sounds like possibly the needle and seat arent shutting off the flow of fuel? does it run out of the overflow tubes onto the ground? Like you said it could be the floats, make sure they are in tact as well as in proper adjustment. and check the needle for any wear or damage.

I did that when I cleaned and adjusted the carb and floats. And it ain't coming out of the overflow. But I do think that I could have the floats set alittle to high. But that is a good thought. I was watching my crankcase mod and it is working good. If I throttled up oil would come up into the tube about 1 or 2 inches but then when I went back to idle it would drop back out of the tube. When it was up in the tube I could see air bubbles coming up and the bellows got warmer (not much) so to me that seems to be working good.

Post pics of you crankcase mods.

Rand

I will do that just as soon as I can. But I am looking at changing it just a little so it will be easier to check the oil.

Does anyone know what kind of internal pressure is being produced on a 350 or 400? Also what is a pretty normal running temp. they operate at? I am trying to find out so I can get a friend to check for the (#20) seal on the clutch side. Alot of the seals I have found out are dust seals due to compounds and spring tension, he needs the info to get a seal that will stand up like the factory seals.

Remove the pulse line from your fuel pump on your ody, install your compression tester on the end of the line so you can see what the maximum pressure is and fire it up. It will run for a minute or two without a fuel supply. The gauge will read maximum pressure and the valve in the tester should keep the Engine's pulse line from putting a vacuum on your gauge.

Rand

I will give it a shot and find out. Thanks.