I appreciate your honest opinion of the Progressives. Anything has got to be better than riding on just a couple of springs which is what I have now since the shocks are totally blown (talk about a pogo stick). I am about 6'2" 200 lbs so that should hold her down hahaha. I have rode an old FL250 odyssey in the past with no rear suspension so I know exactly what you mean about the rebounding.

Uh oh, now you are scaring me man, the shocks I just ordered are listed as 12.5" rears. I found them over on Amazon.com

Sounds good let's ride!

Yes, the rear suspension seems to be gathering a great deal of attention. Still undecided if I want to remove it and try to go back to stock or leave it.

That's why I made mention of the length. I was looking around for shocks and noticed several places listed "Rear Shocks" but when you read the fine print they say the length is 12.5" which are front shocks.

As far as I know, the rear Progressives have not been available for some time.

Sorry to burst you bubble, hope you don't have trouble sending them back!

Rand

Thanks for the information. Amazon hadn't shipped yet so I just canceled my order (the cancellation is pending).
I see now my mistake - Amazon has them listed as rears because they probably DO fit a bike that accepts a 12.5" rear shock but when you use their parts matcher is tells you "Yes this will fit your vehicle". Thanks for saving my butt there buddy!

So now if i am going to HAVE to buy a longer set of shocks for the rear I will probably just keep my dual shock setup... the only reason for switch to a single in the rear was because when I measured the setup I have now 12.5" was too short and I figured it was lifted to higher than normal.

Would a rear shock off a Honda Pilot 400 work or are those ones too long?

You're welcome!

What is the length of the upper shock eye to eye? I have been researching some shocks and a pair of cheap front shocks may just fit the bill!

Actually if you can, measure both shocks eye to eye and post what the lengths of both shocks are.

Rand

Okay I will take measurements on both shocks eye to eye and report back shortly.
Thanks again for saving me from ordering the wrong shock.

Now that I know I need a longer shock and cannot go with the progressive I am considering going all out and buying the "G-series" for the rears because I read they have the thicker 5/8" shaft instead of the 1/2" shaft and appear to be only $30 more than the AT Steelers.

Works Performance Shocks set up correctly for your weight/riding style are the single best investment suspension wise sans going long travel.

I found the attached 350 installation instructions and figured I'd post it here for future reference for 350 owners.

Pilotman

Thanks I am sold on the Works shocks now, sorta glad I ordered the wrong ones from Amazon. I think I am going to try and get a pair of the G-Series.

Anyone know where I can find a good price on them??

So far the cheapest I see the Works G-Series go for is at After shock motorsports for $599 with no reservoirs.

You can call works directly and order them.

Both shocks appear to be 15.5" long from center eye to center eye. Pictures below.

By looking at at least one of the shock labels, those are Baja Magnums which are the old school progressive shocks which worked quite well, some say as good as the works do!

The only way to really get a good measurement is to take them off the Ody and get a good center of eye to center of eye measurement. Like I said before, if they are over 15.25" eye to eye using the stock mounting points, the U joints will bind.

Glad to hear you are going with the works shocks.....you won't be sorry!

I actually have a pair of shocks from a Honda ATV that I'm going to try to get to work. The cost is under 100.00 per pair. The problem is that they are 15.5" and unless I set the camber way negative, the U joints bind.

Rand

We are stripping her naked tonight. I will take better measurements and report back.

My new rear Works shocks are on order and will ship out next week

That is the only label left on any of the old four rear shocks (shows how much abuse they have been through). From what I can see the front shocks have Made in Mexico stamped on them with a 34 over that.

So the guy I bought it from says he ran it at 40:1 but the gas tank says 20:1? Whats up with that guys?

32 to 1 is generally the ratio most of us run. Back in the day, 20 to 1 was common. Since then 2 stroke oils have improved allowing for a slightly leaner oil to gas mixture.

Rand

Thanks I'd way rather have to change a spark plug than a m.o.t.o.r!
I was wondering if that means there are more performance mods to my machine than I am aware of. Considering the extravagant rear suspension setup I wonder what they also had put into the m.o.t.o.r? The guy I bought it from was the third owner and couldn't tell me everything the first guy had done.

Works shocks is located in Canoga Park Ca... just down the street from me.... you can call and order from them directly.. Dune Dart

Haha you found the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) thing. It's automatically changes it. If you use Engine it won't.

yeah funny thing is my girlfriend actually corrects me about this all the time... i notice it doesnt like after.shock either

Well the strip didnt go well at all. my buddy who is a lot better at two stroke motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) internals than me showed up to help with the stripdown and wanted to hear it start. long story short it wouldn't fire up at all for us... pulled the plug and it gets spark but will NOT fire. turns over and smoke comes out but that's all.

Choke it?
Is it flooded?

Using the pull start or electric start to fire it up?

I am really hoping it was just flooded. Ended up going for a ride on the quad all weekend so the Odyssey project got put on hold. My buddies finally got both of their Banshees running and the weather was just too beautiful outside to resist.

The guy I got my "ugly" FL350 from had used a pair of jumper cables to start it for the demo start although he gave me a brand new battery to go with it.
I asked him NOT to add the acid right away as my rebuild might not be done for a few months depending on my budget and how bad the m.o.t.o.r looks when we get to that part. I was trying to start it with the electric start using a jumper cable off of my truck which worked for me the first time and only time I started it after bringing it home.

At first I thought I had the choke on having wrestled the bent and rusted choke lever out below the ignition switch. After further inspection the choke lever is apparently disconnected because when I went back to look at the carb I saw a finger manual pull style and no cable attached. This has me wondering if it even has the stock carb onboard or if this is a larger one added for racing.
Won't know till I take it apart and compare to some stock photos or the manual like I did with the suspension.

Speaking of the suspension... I have the tracking number for the front and rear shocks. The front wheels are pretty loose when I wrestle them side to side or up and down. Wondering if I should invest in some new bushings or wheel bearings or whatever it has up there to tighten up the front steering.

Snowcat said on Saturday he should be able to get my master cylinder and steering wheeler shipped out today.

Stopping by the local Honda shop today to see if they have the pull cord in the gauge I need. The hardware store and saw/snowmobile shop came up empty.

rope on ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-FL250-FL3 ... e5&vxp=mtr


I've never replaced pull rope so can not offer any help - just know of the ebay auction.

Sounds like an pj carb
Have u ever done a compression test?