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SO I just got off the phone with LA Sleeve, and 33274 is one of theirs but they have no info on it. Likely this was resleeved by them more than 12 years ago (prior to 2007) as they don't keep records any older. LA Sleeve did say I can take this cylinder out to 82mm (80tho over stock) and that the layered look is because the new Sleeve was pressed into the original factory sleeve (Which I guess was bored way out to accept the new sleeve), which is why it looks multi-layer. Bottom line is I'm good to go with taking this to 81.5mm now, and 82mm later.

Happy to see you're putting in the effort to put this Pilot back to the shape it deserves. Keep up the good work.

81.5mm bore came back from my friend today. He didn’t want to port it as he didn’t know what is best, and so it’s not going to be ported. Clearances for 4thousandths. Ring end gap is 19thousandths.

Just a quick thought,

You were happy with the power right?

How's the suspension? I'd rather put the money into the suspension than making a faster car that can already outrun the suspension.

Just my op.

Yes I was happy w the power. I can probably upgrade the carb if I want better top but as it was with a worn leaking Engine and old leaking carb she was fast for where I ride. Too fast actually. I can only hammer the throttle for like 5 seconds before I'm going too fast for conditions. It’s got werks shocks but sure I could use more travel and clearance. I did also order a belly pan. Maybe if I keep her long enough for another rebuilt top, I’ll send the cyl out to Hoser next time and go 85mm. Or my friend can get me deals on a running skidoo doner

Today I took apart the Keihin fuel pump to clean it, and all seals looked 20 years old. Its not even worth servicing.

I've ordered a replacement, Polaris model #3085275.

Looks like you're doing everything right. You're gonna have a good running machine when done. I thoroughly enjoy mine. They're almost indestructible.

Thanks.

Today I started installing a lot of the new parts I could - like bearings, dowel pins, some of the seal, and etc. Mostly I'm ready to assemble the Engine; but its likely going to be another week before I get the crank and fuel tank back from service.

I noticed the axle boot clamps and in general the axles weren't probably serviced in awhile, and so I serviced them.

The right axle was OK but the clamps were never installed right. Boots looked good and grease was still black. I added grease to the CVs and re-did the clamps on the boots. I didn't even need to remove the axle to do this - just snip the clamps, slide the boots down, add grease, and use new clamps on the boots. Somewhere along the way I think the right ride boots were replaced before me.

The left axle wasn't as healthy. Grease had turned brown and the boots/clamps were a mess. One clamp was missing and just had some wire wrapped and twisted around it. I removed this left axle completely, took it completely apart and degreased each joint by hand, and then re-installed with new axle boots, grease, and clamps which came with the pilot.

I have a special/cheap single use tool for putting the clamps on tightly. It came in very handy today. Probably won't have to use it again for another 4 years now.

Today I decided to remove the rev limiter from my stock CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit considering a CR500 has a similar connecting rod, revs higher, and the 400 has a shorter stroke, and also I'm having my freshly rebuilt crank's pin welded (New pin, bottom bearing, and CR500 rod); I feel it is fine to raise the rev limit for this machine at this point. Hoser posted how to do this extensively in one of the Pilot Tech links,

But I decided to to do it a much easier/faster way. Arguably folks may not recommend doing this as such, but this takes only about 45 minutes +/- depending on skill, and if it doesn't work I'll post back and re-fill what I did with some proper electrical epoxy. I used marine grade GOOP found at HomeDepot - which I've used plenty of times before for electrical/board products. Its water proof and electronic proof with no conductivity, though not sure if it's interference proof. Will find out soon enough. I can also change this back later as pulling the GOOP out is just a matter of minutes with an exact blade.

What I did was estimated where the outer plastic edge was and then mark on my CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) the proper place to drill and pick away much of the material to a point, and then picking away the rest carefully with an exact blade - ultimately revealing the appropriate jumpers to solder a bridge.

Next post pics of what I did

CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) pics

EDIT: Drill 14mm from the left, and 12mm from the top. The connector is in back, Bottom LEFT. I used a 1/2" drill bit, and only drilled in about 3/16" before I stopped, and cleared everything out with a fine Exacto blade.

Nice job on that rev limit mod.
I seen that other post years ago and wondered the same as you -- why cut the whole CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) apart when you can just drill a hole with a dremel ??
Can you post the measurements you used to drill that hole ?? Need that so others can find the center.
Again nice work.

From my first CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) photo above, its 14mm from the left, and 12mm from the top. The 'plug' is on the OTHER SIDE - Bottom Left corner.

Nice work and come back to post how it worked out.

Also today, I did hear back from Jeff at Competitive cranks, and he should have my redone, trued, and welded crank in the mail either Today or Monday. The service cost was $100 ($75 for the rebuild and $25 for welding). The rebuild parts were $85 from another online source. Shipping was rather high - like $80 all around. Dang gas prices.

I also went through my cylinder and piston with a fine toothed comb in preparations for assembly. Wiseco really put some slack in manufacturing this piston. Seemed half of the piston needed edges chamfered. I went ahead and put about a .7mm chamfer around most areas, and then smoothed them out with some 220 followed by 1000 grit sand paper.

Same with the cylinder. I touched up some final areas in the cast and some of the chamfered edges of the new bore. It wasn't bad just wanting to be sure no rings nor piston catch any lip. Washed up and dried everything off.

I got my Polaris fuel pump today. Partzilla changed the ordered part number. Apparently Polaris #3085275 was replaced by #2520227. Same price and seems to be the same shape/design but OE for newer Polaris units. Partzilla automatically changed my order from the old to new part number. Seems this pump should be fine.

I should be getting my Water Pump seal from ebay:Junkboy today. He's the only US side reseller of this part that I could find quickly. Hope it fits because options are most limited for this part than anything else (Except maybe the double lipped seal might be tougher to find).

No sir. I believe you can still get that pump seal easy. I did comment on that in another post and if I find it I will post here.

Here is comments on it: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=12419&hilit=pump+seal+water

Here is the other one: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13866&hilit=water+pump+seal#p141308

Here is an old thread about the double lip seal on the crank: viewtopic.php?f=37&t=9644&start=0&hilit=double+lip+seal+pilot
Basically you can't get this seal anywhere but Mudbogger used a single lip on his machines and it worked fine. Read the whole thread.

Edit: man we are really basterzing this thread LOL Jumping all over stuff LOL.

Yes this mechanical seal is tried and true...19217-MAL-300

It’s great though. When I’m done I’ll print this whole bread out and add it into the spares box for future referencing.

Since he still has your crank. Your raising your rev limit for short course set up. Based on your comment. Throttle position. This tells me aftermart clutch with less weight for higher rev. Ask him to balance it for the higher rpm. Not a big deal if not. Most don't.
Keep in mind port limitations for the rpm. Check your intake and exhaust durations. Intakes are usually fine for most on the large bore we need to be on the high side of the scale for exhaust. Also no need to do any work below 50% on exhaust due to mean line area. Other than blending. Heck just measure down the bore and get an idea if some work already done. It may have had port work done and sleeve matched to it. When you cc things in conjunction with duration will give you what you need.
Look I had posted what stock is and a work sheet to enter your data and get idea. You may already have some sort of sheet. You can get the stock volumes from mine and input into your.

Enjoy you ride when done

Its got a power block clutch with 12 weights in each red puck. Black spring measures 3.62" free length with 0.247" spring wire diameter

@adnoh - I really appreciate this. If you have any feedback on how tall my exhaust port should be - appreciate it. Right now the port sits at 47mm from top to cylinder top, and then theres a 1.5mm chamfer, so that makes the port shorter at 45.5mm from the top. What is a better setup?? I have not a clue on what works well with porting this cylinder, but I can probably easily raise just the exhaust port with my dremel quickly. I don't think this cylinder has been ported at all though I do some some clean-up from when LA Sleeve sleeved it.

My exhaust port mapped out as a perfect oval shape. It is 52.3mm wide, and 34.2mm tall. 45.5mm from top to top of cylinder.

I've gone to 81.5mm bore - that gives me a 64% figure - port width/bore. I think I can widen the exhaust port 5mm and still be at 70% width/bore. I was also looking at lot, and there are some interesting port designs here. I was thinking to maybe make the port more trapezoidal like on page #32. http://iheartstella.com/resources/manua ... Tuning.pdf


Thank you

In other news Today, got my fan temperature switch setup and installed. A little strange going through 2 adapters but for $28 and getting to the right factory temperature was important. This should work. The extra spade on the new switch just goes to ground to complete the connection.

Old one that fails test on the left. New stuff right

Got a few pics to share for some base line numbers for you. put your numbers into a spreed sheet for starters.
top of cylinder to top of intake would help as well for a few more.
Then as you read thru bell and others it may help you decide on some things.

Remember no pro here just a back yard hacker so take them for what there worth.