Care package from Derek Tisinger on the big brown truck today. I'll get the piston and such over to the machine shop in the morning so maybe we will have a motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) soon!







Bunch of other assorted gaskets, seals, brackets, bolts etc... Derek was great to work with and has a ton of parts for these things.

Continuing to slowly work the list. Chassis disassembled and everything ready to go to powder coat or to my shop to paint. Still can't decide. Will get down to brass tacks with the powder coat folks tomorrow and go from there. All these pieces really need to be blasted so likely will just have them powder coated if the price is not too astronomical.



I went ahead and plugged the vent hole by the stator since I'm doing the vent mod. Turns out the hole was the perfect size to tap 10-24. I slathered the screw with mega gray RTV so shouldn't ever go any where.



Going to work on the gold pieces this week. All of that will be base/clear urethane that we'll spray at work since powder coat is a no no on the J arms.

Finally got the master cylinder apart. Every pair of snap ring pliers I had would not fit the holes in the snap rings. Bought the $5 set at Harbor freight and they worked fine once I did away with the stupid quick connect spring loaded thing and replaced it with a screw to actually hold them together. Go figure. The front side was just sludge and the piston assembly was in pieces inside the bore. Took some serious work in the parts washer but finally got the passages blown out so should be good to go on that once I have it rebuilt.





I ordered 4 new ITP wheels from Summit. Apparently getting them 1 at a time. Got 1 front wheel Monday and another on Thursday. No rear wheels yet but I'll do them gold once I have all of them.



Got the exhaust back from the Cerakote guy. I'm liking the sheen on the high temp black. Did the shields red. That sounded good in theory but not 100% sure I like them now that I see it in person but we'll see once it goes together.



Progress. Slow but sure.

Well you may not like the look of the red heat shields and since you don't like them, feel free to send them to Canada FREE. After all you don't like them.
I think they look great.
You may not like the look of them just sitting there on the bench but the real test is when everything is bolted up. Remember it is sitting in a red frame.

Extra postage to Canada ya know.

Gonna be beaut!

Man I hope so. I’m married to the thing now.

Off to powder coat it goes. $600 for what's in the picture plus the fuel tank. Don't see how I can pass that up.

The FL350 project is spreading to the mini bike now. lol... Wasn't sure I was going to like the gold wheels but I do! Thinking I need white fenders now. And yes, I know I should do the seat blue but I ain't gonna.

this thing looks sick! the mini bike honda should have made! throw a fl250 or fl350 Engine in that and that will be a damn nice piece. It looks great right now though! awesome!

Thanks! It's eventually going to get a Tillotson 212R 4 stroke. 12.5 hp instead of the 6.5 hp 196 it has now with 30 series TAV similar to the clutches on the FL's. That should scare the crap out of me. lol...

This sounds like you are doing a restoration similar to what I did about 6-months ago.

What are they doing to the tank? I hope they are acid washing and protecting the inside of it. To do this right, they would first need to acid wash the inside, then sandblast the outside. Then acid wash it all again, followed by powerdercoating and baking the outside. Final step would be to seal the inside. In this order or else its going to have a rusty inside. The problem is I don't think they'll be able to coat the inside until the outside powerdercoat is cured at temperature - as the inside coating won't survive the heat.

With my build, I did not get the full chance to powder coat every freaking little thing, and so I took the approach of using Black Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy for all the random odds and ends. The Rustomleum Appliance Epoxy has held up very well, is tough, and resistant to fuel just so you know its only $4 per can also. Scrub and phosphatide your metals, then bake at 400F if you can. Only bake things with ball joints at 250 though cause theres plastic in them.

You could do the tank this way - Sandblast, acid wash, inside coat, then appliance epoxy black. Worked well for me

Believe it or not the tank is pristine on the inside. This buggy sat in storage in Arizona for 22 years which preserved much of it in incredible condition. I pretty much have every thing... I hope... going to powder coat less the J arms. I'm in the body shop business so we'll do baked automotive urethane on the J arms, the recoil cover and any bits that I might have missed getting to powder.

I have same dilemma, modify or keep original. Just finally having one was priority one. I think for now I’ll do some minor upgrades, nothing major, just the suggested factory improvements. Someday I’ll do long travel, but first I’ll go water cooled. Good luck with yours, whatever you decide.

As I continue to document the build, I'm linking to another thread I have in the Tech Stuff section on replacing the rear springs with lighter rated Eibach springs. I'll document the process of adapting those spring to this application and the results.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18447

After a case of sticker shock on getting the original seat recovered and even more sticker shock on buying a new one, I decided to follow what some other have already done. I called my local Polaris dealer and inquired about the possibility of take out new RZR seats. Quick trip across town and $75 later, I have a brand new RZR seat and frame. Little soak with lacquer thinner on the RZR printing on the headrest and poof, no more RZR. I'll fab up some brackets, skid plate and heat shield when I get the chassis back from powdercoat.

After sitting in the new seat for a bit my butt and back already thank me. lol...

I don't believe I have ever seen a seat like that in a Odyssey. Looking forward to seeing it installed. Hard to beat the price.

There are some folks on the FB pages that have done it. Looks like a pretty straight forward deal. Simple brackets to bolt to the factory spots. Definitely more comfy than the OE seat.

Love the seat.

Sweet! Will that work on a Pilot also?

I like this idea, that’s a good looking seat.

I like how it has the opening at the base of the back. This will let water and crap out.

Any concerns about how the stock safety harness will fit?

$190 with free shipping on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-RZR-RA ... SwWlFbtkaz

They make a bezel to fit these seats so the belts can pass thru. I ordered one. $25 on Ebay. We'll see how it goes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DragonFire-Harness-Seat-Pass-Through-Bezel-For-Polaris-RZR-900-1000-15-0013/292341483206?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649



I would strongly suggest finding a local Polaris dealer to inquire about a seat. These seats are used in RZR 900's and 1000's. My local one had a stack of seats, bumpers etc... that had been removed from brand new machines when the buyers opted for aftermarket replacements.

I hate being the odd man out here but I have an aftermarket racing seat in one of my oddys.
It's bolted into the death machine. I had to modify the base of this seat so that it would fit. It also has a skid plate on it so that nothing coming through the bottom --- gets your bottom .
The thing I don't like about the seat is that you sit higher and this puts the steering wheel down around your balls. That's just what it feels like to me. The original oddy ergonomics seem perfect to me and I am a small guy (5'5"). Now stuff a fluffy fellow 6' tall in there and you got an issue with ergonomics. You may also have helmet/roof lid clearance issues.
The other issue I see with that seat is that there are no cut outs for the seat belts. My aftermarket seat in the death machine at least has those cut outs so that the belts fit well.
Just my opinion.

Forum member @meegusmaster has done these conversions on multiple machines. Does require brackets to get the seat lower, skid plate, heat shield. Don't mind fabbing those things and I already have the proper material. We'll see how it goes once I have the chassis back. Guessing given what these seats are bringing on Ebay that I can sell it for double what I paid and move on if it doesn't work.

Some of the pics in this thread show the same seat in Dawn's highly modded 350.

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=18412

Edit: Pic of Dawn's installation...