Yes. It ran but not very well. Hard to start cold. I "assumed" it was just goop in the fuel system from it sitting so long until we found the boot from the air box to the carb had been disconnected for who know how long and 90 psi compression. After that I had pretty much just accepted that it would be an total Engine rebuild until I took it apart.

I am not an expert but I think 90 psi is the bare minimum a two stroke needs to run.
That's one reason why it was hard to start.
I have run an oddy Engine with 100 psi if I remember right. It was a long while ago.
I find it hard to believe that a two stroke will run with less than that 90 psi.
May be someone can correct me on this though and give a known minimum compression number.

I think you are probably right about the hard cold start being the low compression. It's just tired so we'll give it some new life. I saw in another of the 478 threads that I've read where you stated that anyone that buys one of these things and even thinks they are just going to get in it and ride without doing anything is nuts. I was certainly on the wrong side of that to begin with. However, I love to research whatever I'm working on. Chasing parts and generally learning what makes it tick is my thing. I'm enjoying the process of going thru it. My bank account is not. lol... I have no plan to ever get rid of it and that's probably a good thing.

Couple of random questions...

1. What is the purpose of the rubber spacers in the cooling fins?

2. I'm going to degrease and clean but has anyone used anything to brighten the aluminum on the Engine and trans? Something like Eagle One wheel cleaner?

3. Anyone had any success with straightening out the edges of the wheels? I'm guessing I can get them back to general shape with a BFH but not sure about how to go about straightening the rolled lip so it looks decent.

4. Any tips or tricks with rebuilding the front end and master cylinder other than what's in the manual? Any special bleeding procedures?

5. I need to remove the foot tub. Is there some way to get it out without totally disassembling the steering column?

I read where it had been done before. The bodywork is supposedly polypropylene. We have a Polyvance nitrogen welder at my work so it should be a fairly simple deal if it truly is polypropylene or at least some plastic we have rod for. I'm going to pull the tub this week and give it a shot. I'll report back.

This is the welder we have. Pretty amazing what you can do with it.

https://www.polyvance.com/Nitrogen-Welders-1/6080-CG/

I played with a plastic welder before, the results were not good. I had no clue what I was doing.lol A quick low compression story, my buddy had a yamaha 100 gokart with compression so low we had to tow it behind a car with a piece of wood jammed in the clutch to start it..lol It took a minute or more of towing to get it running each time it cooled down. Once it got warmed up it started pretty easy.

I was the chief of doubters when we got the welder. I couldn't imagine that it was going to work well or that we'd ever be able to recoup the $4500 investment but we use it every day. It's an amazing machine. It has paid for itself several times over in the couple of years we've had it. We rebuild bumper covers and even form mounting tabs that are missing. The repair is literally stronger than the plastic. If it works the same on these plastics then there will never be an issue with where they are welded. It's all a matter of what they are made of and if we have the proper rod to repair them. Auto manufacturers have codes on the back of their parts to tell us exactly what it is. No such luck with these pieces so we'll have to do a little experimenting to be for sure.

Seen good results where guys use bits of broken fenders and tubs to weld with. Also a guy on fb did some pretty amazing repair work on fenders using a combination of a plastic welder and a hot stapler. As far as I know if you’re gonna take your tub out the steering column has to be removed or you have to cut the tub but I think we all know which one of those is not going to happen lol

I used to get our broken fenders welded at a local plastics place here.
It was very expensive but they did an awesome job, and you are right about it being as good and stronger than original.
With all of our crashes we used to have I finally gave up on welding fenders because it was too costly.

1) I don't know -- possibly for vibration reasons ??
2) Muriatic acid I think the guys called it here. Not sure. Just a lot of work. Look up threads on cleaning aluminum in a cylinder. I know hoser mentioned it several times.
3) Yes I do it all the time. I have a tool I made. Will post a pic later.
4) You need a welders torch tip cleaner. You use it to make sure the small ports under that little clear plastic bubble are clear and clean. The little plastic bubble just pops out with a pic.
You must make sure you get full stroke on the master cylinder plungers. These things move a pathetic amount of fluid at best and you need that full stroke or the seals don't clear the ports.
5) Your ded ---- Haahahahahahaha. Pull it. Haahahahahaha.

I've heard of using the old fenders as filler rod but I don't have access to any to try. We have white rod already so I'll just try that as see what happens. I need to reattach a mount on the right rear fender so doing that first before diving into the tub.

BTW...using your video to attempt getting the driven clutch off this afternoon. Thanks so much for your how to stuff on these machines!

Here is a comment on cleaning aluminum, go to page 3: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=8685&hilit=swimming+pool+company&start=50

If you have a vapor honer, vapor blaster what ever it’s called... it makes the aluminum look like new.

Wheel repair.
Here is a good video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCY5C2vnusE
Below is pics of the tool I made to repair a bent in bead. It use to be used a lot around here .
Basically it is a piece of round stock the fits in the wheel bead and welded onto a piece of plate that is welded to a bolt.
I have used my cutting torch to heat up wheels and then smashed them with a block of wood or a piece of steel and a BFH.

You need to get a .25 over Honda piston, get a bore, set clearance properly, and then you’ll have compression restored. See if Derek has a kit for you. Partzilla still has the small end bearing and wrist pin also.

On an air cooled setup, I’d try for 6 thousandths of piston to wall clearance with about 8 thou service limit. Also 20thou ring end gap should work. Relieve exhaust bridge. Drill oiling holes in piston.

Your old piston w new rings isn’t going to get you very high compression. Assuming you’ll need a hone that’ll add clearance beyond the spec of standard bore pistons and rings plus your piston is worn. Just bring a .25 Honda piston and your cyl to a machine shop. They should set you up right. Shoot for 140psi.

Thanks. Derek has the pistons and rings for the stock bore and 3 more past. I don't think the thing even needs to be honed but we'll see. Going to get it inspected and measured at the machine shop tomorrow and go from there. I'd imagine the next up is where I'll need to be for it to be right. One way or the other I want to get it right the first time.

Cool! That's what I need. I'll fab one up.

Little time in the shop this afternoon. I drilled and tapped the driven clutch and used the balancer puller per Malcolm's video and it worked perfectly. Decided I'd give the trans a bath at the parts washer. Followed that with a little elbow grease with a scotchbrite pad and some detail work with a wire wheel on the Dremel. Came out pretty good.







Under the gunk I found the recall X.



Decided to give the shocks a round as well. They came out pretty well but I still want to disassemble and paint the springs especially on the rears. Yes I know the stockers are junk but I gotta stop bleeding money on this thing so Works or whatever will have to wait.

Fronts were not too bad to begin with.



Came out pretty good as well.



Rears are still a work in progress. They are pretty nasty.



Got the rest of the suspension off with out and issue except one of the inner seals on the J arms was not there. Don't see them available new any where. If anyone has an extra I'd gladly pay whatever it's worth.



Taking the pipe to a friend that does Cerakote tomorrow. He's doing 2000 degree semi gloss black on it for me. Also taking the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) pieces to the machine shop tomorrow so we can get to the bottom of what I need to get from Derek so i can get those pieces on the way.

Incase you ever Egg the whole rim then this may help in the future.Can't believe it was 11 !@#$/^& years ago!
Where does all the time go huh?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3541&hilit=Rim+repair

Thanks for that link. Very interesting.

What did the machine shop say about your cylinder and old piston?

I've used this machine shop for automotive things before with great results but it's been a long time and I had no clue about them doing this type of work. So I show up there with my stuff. Plop it down on the counter and the guy takes one look at it and says, "Cool!!! It's an Odyssey." Guy already knew about the exhaust bridge, drilling the exhaust holes in the piston skirt etc... I'm confident that it'll all be good.

The cylinder had .002 wear at the top. .000 at the bottom. We decided the best option was to bore it for the .25 over NOS Art piston. I ordered the piston, rings, wrist pin, bearing and cir clips from Derek Tisinger along with a list of other goodies.

So now I'll continue with the other items on the to do list as I wait on the Engine parts.

Disassembly continued today. Guess I don't have to say "Well, as long as we are this far" many more times. lol... I'm goign to take the chassis to work and steam it. Decide from there if I'm going to bust the cage off it and take it and a bunch of other pieces to the powdercoater.



Speaking of other pieces, everything is pretty much just pieces now. Nearly 100 baggies with hardware bagged and tagged. 3 tubs of parts. Ton of stuff still to run thru the parts washer.



The piston and such will be here on Tuesday so I took time to get the case cleaned and ready to go to the machine shop. They are glass beading the cylinder and head. Should have a fresh motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) pretty soon. Pretty please with how the cases and trans cleaned up.



I'm very much enjoying the process. Took a ton of pictures along the way so hopefully I can actually get it back together.

.25 over? Damn!

Why is there not a shock therapy sticker on the parts washer? Sheeesh, slackers!

Honda Art service piston. .25 mm over so not quite .010 inches.

Parts washer is new and getting quite the workout I must say. lol... The Shock Therapy stuff is all left overs from the dragster deal. Not much parts washing in electric power. I do still have some stickers though. Hmmmm...