It's hard enough for a beginner like me to get my head around anyway much less fighting a intermittent fuel pressure deal that you don't even know exists.

2 new keys in the mailbox when I got home for lunch. Fresh one installed and all buttoned up already. Buddy coming over later this evening to help me stab it back in. I really hope that there is a video of it running before the evening is over.

Anyone know amp/wattage pull?

Theres only a couple ways that key would have sheared like that. Especially if it only sheared from just the starter motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )), I'd bet money a new key will re-sheare again. The keys are only for alignment and cant hold any torque whatsoever, let alone several horsepower from the starter and inertia change from fluctuating RPM. They are only for initial setup and then the torque of tightening the flywheel bolt is the major holder. If I were you I would replace the flywheel nut.


Are you absolutely sure the flywheel contact and crank surfaces are true with no defect? These surfaces need to be smooth and need to mate up perfectly tight and torqued else the flywheel WILL spin again irregardless of the key.

You might try some green loctite though that might not be such a great idea. Food for thought though.

Otherwise you will be right back where you started with a new key sheared.

FYI - Ace hardware usually has different sized flywheel keys cheap if you need.

Also I'm interested in that pump. Is there any way it can be relay/wired so that it is only active while the Engine is cranking AND running? This would be for safety. Even by the key/On/Off switch is not exactly safe. Needs to only run while Engine is actually turning over.

Both the original time and the 2nd time I've had the flywheel off, the nut was tight as was the flywheel itself. It took a good amount of pressure on the puller to free it from the crank both times. I have no clue nor does Methodical. I have been over every minute detail of the whole mess with him. No obvious answer to the issue. Don't know what to do at this point but to try it with a new key and see what happens. Certainly open to anything other than that if anyone has a suggestion.

I agree!

I would have no idea how to do that. I could not come up with any better way than to energize with the key switch.

The pump motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) literally stops completely therefore pumping no fuel at all if the system is not drawing fuel once it has full pressure. Sorry if this is a stupid question but what condition would cause a safety issue given the way the pump regulates itself?

I only know enough about electronics to get myself in to trouble but if I were to work on the fuel pump on only while running issue, I think you could use a diode in your charging wire to the battery so it only gets power while the Engine is charging, you may also be able to wire into the starter button so you get some in the carb while cranking but you may need to isolate that power so the charging system is not supplying power to the starter
just food for thought, you can get it figured out so if I ever need to put an e pump in I'll know where to look
I have the watercraft carbs on my 670, just bought a carb rebuild kit specifically to get the pulse pump parts. when I took it apart I noticed some damage to the reed sealing surface, I know it was there before, replaced the pump body, so now I get to see how it works.

on a different subject, where did you get the flooring for your trailer, very nice.

You lost me at diode. Actually it sound like what you suggested could probably be made to work but honestly, I'm going to go with it as is soooo if you figure it out you can let me know.

The flooring is the small coin PVC from Garage flooring of Co. They had the best deal on it. Free shipping and it's made in the US. They also have the correct glue.

https://www.garageflooringllc.com/g-floor-small-coin-garage-mats/

Fired right up. 98 octane and Amsoil Dominator smell really good by the way.

2 heat cycles tonight. Tomorrow night we go for ride #1.

Oh my godddd! Woohoooooo

That's what I said!

Beautiful. That things sounds nice and smooth.
It runs nice and smooth as well. I don't see any Engine vibrations. It just seems to sit there. Very nice.
CO

Thanks much CO. It is crazy smooth. Methodical definitely did his magic on it. Apparently the whole key deal was just a fluke. It fired right up tonight. Literally could not get off the start button fast enough on the second heat cycle. Idles perfectly at 1200 rpm.

That thing runs so smooth! Can’t wait for the ride!

Thank you!

Hearing that thing run gave me the warn and fuzzies..lol

I was thinking about the pump running while the buggy was on it's side from a rollover. I could see the possibility of the float being in the down position and the pump pushing fuel out the overflow and possibly into the cylinder.

I think a tip over/bank angle switch could fix the issue?

Terry, I'm surprised to hear you say he lost you at diode. With your electric dragster, I would think you would be well versed? Just to be clear, he lost me at diode too.

I'll freely admit that my buddy and I did just stand and absorb it while the heat cycles were going on. Feels good for it to run.

I was actually just kidding with the diode comment.

I'll research the tip over switch. That would be ideal.

A lot of the older motorcycle tip over switches are just a pendulum type switch, probably be super easy to just put one inline on the power wire for the pump. I'm sure there are mercury switches too, but I don't know how they would react on bumpy terrain.

I see OE ones but they seem to be all on street bikes. Guessing the rough terrain might be a deal killer to using one of those but will research more and see what I can find.

That's not what I would do.
CO

You feel it's ok as is or do you have another idea of something different?

Perhaps just a secondary switch for emergency cutoff manually activated would do the trick. Or you could research and induction/coil switch kind of like how a tiny tach works perhaps. I don’t know if there is such a thing though.

Bear with me here on my stories please:
1) I have been on fire in my race car. It's not a good feeling. The race cars all have electric fuel pumps. The fitting on the carb broke and the pump kept pumping fuel. The corner crew put me out.
2) I have been in a HUGE crash in my oddy that got me a free helicopter ride to a trauma center in the big city a hundred miles away. I broke my back (crushed L1).
I hit a washout at very nearly top speed of an oddy. My guess is 50+ mph. When I hit the hole the oddy went straight up like a missile, rolled over in the air and I came down on the roof. The impact was so great the sparkplug lead came off and the Engine died all on it's own. I cart wheeled down the road and then rolled down an embankment and got hung up in some trees. The oddy was upside down. I undid my belts and fell out of the oddy.
Now here is the key part: The Engine was off but fuel was leaking out the tank through the fuel cap and dripping on the ground right where I was laying. I was actually watching it come out LOL. I could smell the fuel but I had nothing else to do anyways. Did spend some time killing deer flies and ants that were biting me though.

What I am saying is that in a big crash if you are upside down in an oddy fuel is gona leak out the tank anyways. With and electric pump fuel is only gona leak out if you brake a fuel line.
I am NO electron mechanic. I hate electrical. All I know about it is that if you give it the lick test you're gona end up on your azz. Having said this I still want to comment.
I don't think there is an electrical switch that will work in this situation. On rough terrain the tilt switch will constantly be cutting in/out and the pump motur is probably not going to like that very much, but I could be wrong. All new vehicles have and electrical cut out when you get into a head on crash but it must be reset manually. Not sure if this is an option here.

In my opinion I would put a check valve in the pressure side of the fuel line that goes to the carb and when the machine is upside down it just checks the fuel and dead heads the pump.
But remember #2 above.
CO

Edit: When I get those three electric pumps for my machines I am just gona go with it. If I crash that hard again I hope I am dead.
CO

I swapped a 302 into my Jeep 9 years ago and the wire harness that I used had one of those kill switches mounted under the dash