Here is one picture to give idea what i have going on, i will post more later, as i have changed a whole bunch of stuff, i need to organize my pictures a bit....

some specs to go along with it, shooting for 20 inch wheel travel, fox air shocks, dual a arms front, 5 link rear, 15" wheels rear, 14" wheels front, 2003 gsxr 600, naturally aspirated, turbo waiste of time, nitrous easier.. then has about 85" wb, was 90 but i changed some stuff, also 74" width at ride height. bolt on nerf bars, per some peoples suggestions. and that's about it for now, beard look alike cheap suspension seat, 1.25 od dom .120 wall tube, everything except side diagonals, those are 1"x.065 dom. mig welded, wish it was tig welded but that's the next toy i buy...
oh also from what it looks like now, i will try to get 8" droop travel and the remainder 12 will be bump, from what i am reading and learning droop travel far more effective than huge ground clearance, car will bottom out on the shocks 4" before making contact with the ground. front end has kingpin inclination figured in, no ackerman angle for dirt, and should have finished 30 degrees sterring lock, hard to get much more with heims ... any comments suggestions etc always welcome, i learn most from what people suggest and or tell me...

What is the rear wheel drive setup, I see something like a large aluminum billet. 15" seems pretty large for the Engine, what size are on it now?

rear drive is custom jackshaft, it pivots, i may run 14" wheels on rear to, it has 25/11/10 on the rear now, 22/8/10 on front, from what i have gathered, seeing the protodie cars etc, these 25" wheels spin a lot, i am shooting more for the old briggs type setup, the 14" wheels i will use for trail and race are stock steel cavalier wheels, i will if i can find get some aluminum wheels for the rear for paddle tires, my hub assemblys front and rear are off cavalier as well. and for the Engine my little 600 has 105 hp, and not sure on torue think 72 lbs, that is first gear at sprocket, when using a jack shaft i am actually multiplying the torqu to the final drive, so if i have 72 lbs and running 6:1 ratio i will end up with 432 ft lbs torque at rear wheels, you are going to be very surpeised at what these bike motors will do, i think when you take the first ride you will be smiling for a week.i am going to post some more pics here in a bit...

I am counting on a big smile. Ours are chain drive from the bike tranny to the Drakart transmission, they have rear end ratios of 4.7 to 1, not sure just how the sprockets affect things. I want to get a couple extra sprockets of different sizes to see what the best combination is. The 750's are supposed to have about 140 HP, not sure of the torque, but I think it is about 100.

ok here is the cassette, custom design, i gave the numbers and another guy drew and machined, hope it works...

here is the mounts, they weld to frame and if you notice the notches, it allows the block to pivot backwards to adjust the chain from Engine to jackshaft, the tensioner on the block adjust the jackshaft to final drive chain....

here is a few in the begining... i had a lot done in a few days, but seems to get slower and slower, and interest fades etc... but the spark will come back and i will get tons done soon...

various pics

actually the a arms come to the end now, so i am on about #6. haha

one more for now, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is pretty good size, so i made the bottom removable, the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) gos out the bottom if needed to remove.

Looking good, when will it be done?

lol, not for a while, if i quit changing stuff and come up with 2k for finish, probbaly early spring feb or so..i have did a lot of things i relized i wasn't happy with so i changed, i do lots trial and error, next car will be sweet as hell i think, after all i have learned on this one...

Very clever gear box, bet that took some imagination and work,

the jack shaft is really not going to be what is cad photoed, just the block and the tensioner is what i had made, i am making all the shafts weld hubs etc, car will have outboard brakes to, it is machined to have wilwood caliper for inboard, but im scrapping that idea, basicly the block hold 4 bearings per shaft, i doubled up bearings for more support, and hopefully i will hear one go bad before it damages the housing, then i can replace them, maybe... the shafts are pto shafting or tractor stuff, i pruchased them for 20 bux each, had another guy on a cnc lathe weld 2" and turn down for better bearing support, as the shaft came completly splined, i will cut to length etc, on my lathe, the blck hubs you see are off the shelf items as well, they will get steel circles welde to them and trued on the lathe, then the lowers will be drilled for bolt a flanged yoke to them, yes ujoints, then drilled for sproket to bolt to as well, i will do same on top shaft but only drill for sprocket, haveb=nt decided yet to drill and tap shaft end, or drill and thread setscre thru shaft, some one told me i could drill thru shaft and run set screw all the way thru with locktight, that will give more clearance on the end of shaft...now the mounts, they were drew up by my buddy in cad, me and him set for 2 hrs and figured the angles etc so that it would pivot on the lower back hole, than another member of another forum machined them for me on a cnc mill, since i have found an excellent priced place in oregon doing laser work, so i will use them in the future... the design seems like it is going to work well, but it may not, its like taking 700.00 to casino, you may win you may not....Total cost for entire rear drive when complet, is about 700.00....

anyway thanks for the interest drak/ted...someday maybe we run em...lol
ps. i like the drakart a lot to, if i only had 30k i would own one as well, total cost of this car is guessing at 8k, and a lot of headaches and hours...

Ours are not the 30 grand variety, they are about 20, if I had to build it myself, I would die of old age before I got it finished.

Hopefully we can all catch up in the future and have some fun.

lmao old age bit,i may to im not done yet, 20 is not to bad at all really, i have seen some cheesy stuff for 30, and the draks look pretty well built now, do you have any pictures from allen of your build? that would be sweet to see progress, as for time, i started in mar on the 30 i believe it was, biggest set back is money, if i had the 8k at the start, i spent 3k in tools to get going, i probbaly could build in 2-3 months now, if i duplicated everything i have done so far, and that being after work and weekends, the next car i build will be changed a bunch to from what i got now, tho the next one will be in cad so i don't have to figure parts etc, granted this chassis is from rorty r6 plans, it just resembles it, i have changed every single dimension to fit me...and the radius etc was metric, so had to refigure etc etc.. i have the bend tech ez software 39.00 version, but it can do anything that these cars requires, saves a lot of figuring etc....

oh, drak/ted, did you guys know, that the 600 and 750 cc Engine direct swap, also the 1k with addition to oil cooler and spacer in rear motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mount, i believe all wiring same as well... i will most likely swap out to larger myself.... this is what i was told, maybe you guys know differently....

I had heard that the 600/750 share almost everything except internals...now I know. I was not aware of the 1000 being able to do a direct swap. Hmmm...we'll have to see how things go but I'm sure the 750 will be more than enough power for me (143hp). Yes, the wiring should be able to swap betwen the 600/750 as well...again, ditto for the 1000. My guess is the computer is different because of the different redline limits in each one and different fuel/ignition curves. Other than a few parts I think you can swap nearly anything between the motors. Depending on which year Engine you have also makes a diff...we have 05 motors in ours and 04/05 is completely the same as far as the mechanical items go.

yup, 01-03 the same as well, i am sure computer etc will be different, 750 will be some killer power no doubt, if i were to swap probbaly would be 750...

its been a productive day so far, fianlly got the car, well the front anyway, back on some rubber, these will not be the tires i run... anyway, may try to get steering arms done after dinner...my new bench to hoser...

Looking good!

What is width of front outside to outside of the tires?

I know they are not the tires you will run...

76" outside width...

sent wiring harness out today to hyperracing.com for chop cut rebuild, could have done myself, but 150 bux ill let the pros do it, it should be 1/2 the size when i get it back.....

I have come to the conclusion that sometimes it's best to turn over a job to someonr who knows what they are doing... Saves alot of aggravation!!!