Heres some pics before I received the rubber snubber.

Holy shite... that is so much better than mine... for how long I don't know cause I ah gonna copy it ah
man that is sturdy looking and looks like it is func over form with still a high dose of form..
Thanks for the pics
Steve

Glad you like it.
Here's some I just took,shows the OEM rubber snubber in it's correct place.

Still looks great... I had so much torque flex that the bug was starting off in 2nd and 3rd gear because of the belt slop...
I will try to take some pics of mine this w.e... what Engine is that? and how is gas consumption? I have a 5 gal tank and I am curious what to expect for distance... at a mod to quick pace...LOL
Thanks again for the input... I would not be where I am on this project without all the trial and postings of all the great members here...Thanks to all....and to all a good night...
Steve

oh and another question.... I pulled the thermostat from the 582 and ran the rad with inlet and outlet only... the sled had a return line at thermostat as bypass... should I put a thermo back in? and can I have a thermostat inline like this without return..ie will it burn the water pump up when closed? I do have a guage and a fan controlled via toggle so I know it will stay cool...
Regards

Good night???
YOU crazy? It's 7;30 am here Downunder!
Good morning.

motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) is an 01' Rotax,from a Skidoo MXZ,600cc reed and RAVE valves.
Fuel consumption? Never really worried about that,as it's mainly used for racing here.
Infact,going again this Sat racing,1st in the Summer series at Northam Speedway.
Wish me luck.....why thankyou!

To all all good night.... just a Christmas ref is all...
I am not worried about the gas use... just trying to plan, so when I ride with King KX I can be preped proper... u know... I don't what to be the tool that gets towed back to the truck...LOL

If you run the Engine without the bypass, then you should plug both the port and the hose. I would run with a t-stat. It keeps the Engine at a consistent temp. This makes for easier jetting, consistent power - pipe temps will always be hotter - , Are you having temp problems now?

Being towed back is part of the R&D process. You learn from your mistakes and where to make improvements. It is not like you are buying bolt on parts.

No but it is all weld on parts King... get the tow strap ready...

Hello
Just a couple of more trials and updates
I covered the UNIs with outerwears for now...

You have any bigger pics?

You have any bigger pics?[/quote]

I know right...
I will have bigger pics.. all I had was my silly phone on me..
the tube is 3 inch I.D. and I placed a cover over the Pilot trans mech. so it would not wear through the tube

When I was doing my 440 swap into my Pilot I ran into a guy on MacDizzys site that use to use the same 440 for his midget racing type car he advised me to remove the T stat said I would not need it and the sleds had them because in some conditions the sleds cooling system would over cool.

Not sure if the same would apply to his Engine or not you might search the web for your exact Engine and see what other applications use it and if they run the T stat or not.

I ran the stock thermostat in my 670, block-off plate on the bypass, with a Honda Civic rad and the Engine temps stayed consistent 180deg.

What temp is that Engine suppose to run at and at what location are you suppose to be taking the water temps?

A quick search came up with 160-180deg operating temp. The fact that it would get to 180 and stay there means that that is what the stock themostat was controlling it at. I'm good with a consistent 180.
My temp sender was in the factory location in the cylinder head.

Hehe Baz said Rubber Snubber LOL

Is this something I need to put into the triple EEE? I just had to re-weld the Engine mount and notice that the Engine DOES NOT have a solid mount between the tranny and the Engine???

nother try... you can see in the side pic that the coolant hose goes over the air tube... this is the bottom rad hose...that small little gas tank is oil res.
Regards
oh and disregard the pic dates...

No it is not necessary. Your Engine is a solid mount as is the trans. The "rubber snubber" is to prevent the belt alignment from getting out of alignment due to an Engine/trans moving and flexing when mounted on rubber bushings (bushings used to reduce Engine vibrations) when the Engine is under heavy load. If you have ANY movement from either the trans or Engine on your machine then something is loose or broken.

The red "bushings on mine don't have a lot of play, but are there... But they don't have the "rubber" qualities like a pilot of ody...
And for being solid mount I am surprised there is no vibration... at least until the thing broke... I could feel it the last two times it broke... could see it too...
I don't need a solid mount between the tranny and Engine?
Did you guys remove the thermostat? I ask because there is one in the spare parts bag...

My 1st plan was to run without the thermo...
After KingKX posted his thoughts regarding running more consistent temps and easier jetting with the machine... I put the thermo back in... It makes sense for me too because I am running a rad off of a 4 cyl car and don't want to over cool it/ wait for ever for it to warm on a cold day...

I found a belt that would work with my setup and I used this without issue
the last 2 pages contain part numbers with belt lengths and widths
Regards G.O.
by the by I used the HP2022 for my application it fits a 1998 Kawasaki kvf400 4x4 prairie
1.205 width by 41 or so
my stack sled belt was 44 inches x 1.375 so I only lost approx 1mm of width...
Now I gots some good deflection

Bugeye
What belt are you running?
Length and width is you could please.
Regards Steve

WOW... Close call for G.O.
My 583 has 3 areas for coolant lines.. two up top by the thermo carb side and one down behind the Engine (exhaust side)...
I ran the bottom of rad to the lower exhaust side and one of the top ones to the top on the rad...
Well it turns out that the 583 has a secret... when the Engine is cold the coolant circles without the rad (which is the top line from the Engine and when it is at temp it opens the thermo and flows to the rad (via the lower of the two carb side/thermo lines... well I had a 50/50 chance of hitting it right but NOOOOOOOOOO...
I closed of the lower outlet of the carb side/thermo side and what this did was at start up it would run coolant to the rad and after warm it would open the thermo which closed the hose/outlet to the rad and kept the fluid in the twin to heat just so nicely...LOL
well now I switched the hose to the lower outlet and blocked the upper of the two carb side outlets and the Engine keeps the coolant static until up to temp and then lets it run to the rad....
Well lo and behold... it cools now...
It got to 85 C. before I shut it down and went looking....
still have 125 psi each cyl which is great for this type of Engine...
I have a question though.. does letting the coolant stay static while the eng heats cause any trouble? It is now set just like the typical auto...I am not familiar with the circling cold coolant system of the Engine...
Regards....

Sorry Steve,missed this one.

My belt is an Arctic Cat # 0627-031
I run the OEM TRA2 Drive clutch,with an AC driven.