John l wrote:
NICE NICE NICE It goes on and on.. you are amazing my friend. VERY well done. The discipline it takes to accomplish something like this a mountain climb that not many are up to. Yet you make it look easy, you really do man.
Couple elementary questions...
I even have a large set of them but have never fully understood.. why use clecos? Each time I have brought them out I end up just tack welding or pop riveting to hold something in place. If my rivet head is in the way later, I sand it off. I haven't found the clecos all that easy to use and I am certain I am doing it wrong most likely.
Do you ever use POR15 for anything? I find that stuff durable but man what a mess if your not careful with it. Ha
The black you just sprayed... Is that all a single-stage semi-gloss/matte? Particular brand? Do you use the same for under body as you do for jambs and trunk? The little bit of overspray you have on the body surface from the black application.. will it need to be DA'ed off or sanded at all or just tape a line and spray the exterior body right over that?
Man thank you for answering all my stupid questions. The internet is full of places you can go to get answers from people who don't know their ass from a hole in the ground. To find a dude like yourself, willing to share, is priceless. Thanks again!!
Thank you for the kind words.
I like the clecos to preassemble because they are fast & you can take them in & out a bunch of times while trial fitting. I use both 1/8 & 3/16 depending on where I need to use them. I drill the hole and then hit both surfaces real quick with a rolo lock (sp) to remove anything uneven, then it will give you a nice tight fit.
I have only used POR 15 twice . I did a 65 Mustang for a guy and he brought it to me & wanted me to use it so I tried up under the cowl. At the time it seemed like it was fine. The second time was in the gas tank of the the 350 Odyssey I built for my daughter. I found a video on youtube from a member from here, I cant remember his name but he showed how to remove rust from in the tank, anyway I followed his instructions and it seemed like it worked great. I did use a little on the outside but it didn't hold up & started flaking off. It could have been the way I prepped it or ??? Personally I prefer a good epoxy primer over anything else.
The semi gloss Black I used on the dash & below the rear window is just a single stage urethane. I bought a couple of gallons of this stuff years ago on ebay and have been using it on floors, firewalls, subframes etc... I like the sheen and it seems to be very durable.
The Black I sprayed in the jams is the same base coat clear coat I will use on the out side of the car. I don't have a picture handy but I am using Crossfire base brand coat clear coat with their 5020 clear. It's not the best on the market by any means, just mid grade products but I have had pretty good luck with them for several years now.
That little bit of over spray will get sanded off when I wet sand the car for the last time before paint. I have tried it several different ways when painting assembled cars over the years and this just seems to work the best for me. What I do is, when the car is finally straight I will prime the whole car one more time, then I can sand just sand the jams and shoot them. I don't like to mask the outside of the car because I don't want to end up with a hard line anywhere on or near the outside of the car, because it is too hard to get rid of it. By shooting the jams the way I have been doing it, I have found the over spray will act like a guide coat & I can just remove it when I wet sand the car for final paint & I don't have too worry about a line showing up in the finished paint, if that makes any sense. lol.. When I paint the out side of the car I will just mask off the jams and pick an area inside the jam for my tape line.
I am always the first to admit I suck at this stuff and probably the last person anyone should take advice from on this stuff. lol..