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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Piston measured 3.160


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
It looks like someone cleaned up the surface of the head with a DA sander.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
You can see pitting that will be machined smooth.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The top of the cylinder looks like it was sanded or something I will lap it to see if its still flat.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
The bottom of the cylinder gasket surface looks like it was bead blasted.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
This is what I call good service. The Engine gets delivered one evening and by the next evening it is actually getting worked on and I have pictures to look at explaining everything. It took the last machine shop 2 months to get my B18C1 Acura Integra cylinder head back to me.

I can't wait to get this Engine back.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I cleaned up the cases gaskets surfaces and removed as much mud/sand stain crapola from the outside as I could, I removed the rusted up dowels and cylinder studs from the crank cases then checked all the surfaces to ensure they were flat, all surfaces were lapped lightly, I had to use a file to remove the raised metal area on one case half where the rod had moved the metal, you got lucky the rod did not damage your cases.

You can see where the rod contacted the cases.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
I also hoserized your cases with my oil hole mods.

You guys may have read or seen this before else where so forgive me if you have, in the balancer case their is a oil hole that catches lube off the starter ring gear and slings it up where the oil hits the cases then runs down into a hole then is channeled to the back side of the balancer where it is whipped up by the balancer weight and distributes oil to the balance bearings .

Arrow is pointing towards the hole, note the nasty casting flaws and rough edges around the hole.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The oil runs through that hole through the other case (towards the clutch side of the Engine) where it drips out the hole with the blue arrow.

The pink arrow is pointing towards the balancer case vent, the vent system is a chambered baffle system using carefully places passages in the cases.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:47 pm 
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Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
This pic shows alot...

the blue arrow is the passage for the oil coming from the balancer case, the pink arrows is the balancer case vent flow , green arrow is the top of the vent where you hook the balancer case vent hose to.

The green arrow points to the hoserized crank bearing oil passage.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Here is a close up of the balancer oil feed hole the whole oil collection area receives a hoser massage to promote a better capture of oil and direction to the oil feed hole, the hole is slightly enlarged.

The Pilot balancer bearings and system is pretty rock solid but I started thinking about and looking at this area after Stonemans balancer PoofKaboom.

hoserize the cases


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:57 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is the oil hole where the oil drops in above the balancer weight after being cleaned up.

The pink arrows are part of the vent system.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Here are some pics of the oil mod, more here of the same mod performed on TD's cases
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... c&start=36

I hate to cut and paste a link but that's what a database (this site) is all about besides it frees up my time not having to retype this all out and uploading pictures again.

hoserized cases


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:35 am 
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Location: Chicago
While I am waiting on parts I started restoring your head.

Setting it up to remove the damaged area

hoserized head


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:35 am 
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Location: Chicago
First pass


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:36 am 
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Location: Chicago
Second pass


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Removing material from the gasket surface to restore the lost compression from removing material from the damaged squish area.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Your parts came yesterday so I assembled your bottom end today, I snapped some pics of stuff I don't think I have post before, maybe you have seen it some other place on the web if so I apologize in advance for boring you....

The first order of business was to remove the damaged dowels that go between the Engine and trans mounting plates I am not sure how they got damaged but they did, you need to go out and check the TWO dowels on the trans to make sure they are NOT damaged if they are then you need to replace them too, when you install the Engine you have to push the plates on by hand and feel them go into place not draw the bolts tight and assume they are located correctly.

I spent about 1/2 hr removing these cleaning the holes and replacing they were rusted in and a tight fit :shock:

See the other method for removing dowels viewtopic.php?f=71&t=4501


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:21 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
It seems every new crank from Honda is packaged differently than the last one, this one was in 3 plastic bags and by far packed the best I have seen so far.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The first thing I do once it is unpackaged is to inspect it for damage then wash it good to remove all the MFG muck.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Their is always something on them you don't want included inside your Engine, its then oiled with two stroke oil before the carb cleaner dries so their is no chance of it rusting.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Once the crank is installed and the 2 crank cases are bolted together the first thing I do is check the run out on the crank their is no use assembling the whole Engine if it cant pass this test first, actually the run out is first checked on the bench with the crank in V blocks if it passes then I install it in the Engine but it also has to pass once assembled, that's all I am really concerned about because that's how its going to run no matter what run out you get on the V blocks. IMO I think your nuts not to check it as a assembly too.

It only takes a few minutes to check it, I run a bolt through one of the Engine mounts with a flat plate for the mag stand to attach to then adjust the dial indicator so its touching the crank then rotate.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Reverse for the other side.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Update to bring you up to speed...

Cylinder bored and honed to .005 clearance per you and wiseco guy, ports beveled, top of the cylinder lapped to ensure it flat, studs cleaned and reinstalled, piston prepped, reed cage modified, intake manifold matched to cage.

Tomorrow I will do final assembly of top end, once piston and cylinder is installed I will verify the squish clearance and adjust as required and apply the final finish on the head and install.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 11:14 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
Looking good. I can't wait to go riding again. I am gonna pray that this Wiseco piston doesn't let me down. I will follow their break in procedure perfectly.

Thanks again.


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