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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
Unit fires up every time, but after riding for a while it bogs down and won't restart. It will restart if I let it sit and rest for 10 minutes or an hour, but it will run and still cut out after 30 seconds of riding full throttle. Not sure what the deal is, but it never gave me any problems before any help?????


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Szostme wrote:
Unit fires up every time, but after riding for a while it bogs down and won't restart. It will restart if I let it sit and rest for 10 minutes or an hour, but it will run and still cut out after 30 seconds of riding full throttle. Not sure what the deal is, but it never gave me any problems before any help?????


First you need to figure out why the Engine is stopping, are you running out of fuel?

Sounds almost like the Engine is trying to sieze up...

Can you check the compression?

Can you pull the exhaust pipe and look into the exhaust port to check for piston scuffing? Usually when they try to sieze it happens on the exhaust side first.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
I had the same exact problem several years back. Turned out to be bad crank seals. After they get hot, they start leaking bad. It took me 3 piston rebuilds to figure it out. Do a leakdown test to be sure before you have a seizure. I could be wrong, but please check that then post back.

gary


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 Post subject: cutting out 350
PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
Ok, It has fuel in the tank, I will check the filter and float to make sure. Evertime I pulled the plug, it was wet with fuel,???? I will hook it up and check compression, asap. What should the compression read? It also has no visable leaks that I can see. I can and will check the piston from the pipe side to check for scuffing.. If this is the case, should it be rebulit and replaced with water cooled head?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 8:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:54 pm
Posts: 1360
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Rusty fuel tanks can play havoc on carbs, little specks you wouldn't think could, will intermittently block or foul a jet and cause what you describe.

when it dies only on 3/4 to full throttle, its usually the main jet, a restricted jet could be leaning the mix as well and could be the seizing the Engine as well, with the cool down allowing parts to move again.

Does it ever run good WOT (Wide Open Throttle)? only when cold?


If the piston looks good then try using a temporary fuel tank.


compression depends on how your Engine is set up but it should still run even as low as 100 psi (sometimes even lower) good compression would be 125 - 140 psi range, more if high compression mods been done.

checking the piston from exhaust port is a good idea, If it looks bad don't assume it needs to be bored, it may just need a good cleaning, possibly a hone and fresh piston. the piston cylinder clearance is either with in tolerance or not, if cross hatch looks good and it measures up OK, then slap a piston in and roll.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 2:35 pm 
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I have not had a chance to get it apart. I do think the rust could be and issue. I will change gas filter and check everything out. You know how it is during the holidays. What does andyone know about the chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts motorsports guy. He has a water cooled head and a radiator set up for 800? What do you think? Is his stuff quality? Any other options for water cooled head? Please advise


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Szostme wrote:
I have not had a chance to get it apart. I do think the rust could be and issue. I will change gas filter and check everything out. You know how it is during the holidays. What does andyone know about the oooooo motorsports guy. He has a water cooled head and a radiator set up for 800? What do you think? Is his stuff quality? Any other options for water cooled head? Please advise


800? LMAO!


You know you don't need a LC head unless your making some really big HP, you also can add a 9" electric fan in front of the Engine to blow air over the Engine, great for when your running slow on tight trails where you get into a low air flow situation.

If someone has sold you on a LC head then call Hillside Honda 707-263-9000 they sell the RAND liquid cooled head for 300 something bux? and you can get a STOCK Banshee radiator off ebay for 20-50 bux, you don't need some over priced special radiator the Banshee radiator cools the whole Engine your just cooling the head.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... e+radiator

Or Gold wing radiators

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... g+radiator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
WOT (Wide Open Throttle) means with out throttle? Right. If so it runs fine, only when you get moving and on the throttle does it shut down???? Example I was out rideing and let it sit for an hour. It fired right up and then I drove it around at full throttle for about 100 yards. At that time it just bogged down and quit. I sat for another ten and it started right up only to run 100 yards back then died. So, in sumation:

1. Check fuel filter
2. Clean gas cap to check for air vent clog
3. check the little black T check valve
4. check piston by taking off seat and pipe to look for scaring and wear on piston
5. clean carb and check main jet
6. check compression
7. The unit is not leaking oil or anything for that matter
8. Clean air filter

The unit does run well when cool and sitting iddling. The problem comes when you hit the gas. Does my list look right?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:54 pm
Posts: 1360
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
Yes list looks good, from what your saying hopefully it is fuel related, again if your pretty sure then just hook up a temp tank (plastic 1 gallon gas can zipped tied someplace (becarful and think) and run it the same as when it dies, simple enough.

sorry my bad W.O.T. is Wide Open Throttle
sometimes also refered to as W.F.O. I'll let you figure that one out


chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts, Live Wire, Steve Bishop (Professional Liar) is all the same guy, he also has a few buddies that pump up his stuff, ATVnut is the main one.

Condensed version is, 5-6 years ago he was just some guy asking simple tech questions kinda like you are, soon after he decided he was an Engine builder and started offering his services, early on he was clueless, it was clear by the questions he asked and the answers he would give, he made a few products such as his bumper and nerfs that are real POS, a few guys paid for them thinking they were on par with stuff from REAL shops like Graydon and so forth but they got took.

This was all cause we were a close bunch of friends and anything said on the old board (Kiowa's P-O.com) was usually asshole proof because we were all guys helping each other to save money. We try to help Steve, he didn't want no parts, we wanted someone to make stuff, just not junk.
Once we were all friends, money, profiteers and Aftersh**t changed that, a big fight ensued, Kiowa and a few others pulled some little girl games with the board and its members, so when Kiowa pulled Hoser's right to admin his own board, hoser and a few of us left the old board to get away from that BS. They blamed it on hoser saying he was starting trouble with people, but they were ones for real. Most of them have gone away or to other places, basically you see who posts and what their motivation is. The rest just don't like hoser's straight up and in your face attitude and have no place else to go to get genuine help from someone not trying to sell them stuff, personally I rather have someone tell me the truth I don't want to here than to kiss my ass and talk behind my back.

Well here we are several years later and we see EXACTLY how it is on the old board, EXACTLY what we said where people are more inclined to steer a noobie in the directions of their friends that are selling. It started with Moskito and he him pumping his buds like ATVR, Bore Tech, ect. and then is Aftersho*t, now it has spread to just about anybody there save a few.

I will say for Aftersho*ck that he has finally brought his prices down to decent levels now, before he would charge you list +++, lately looks like hes been knocking prices with the cheapest on ebay.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Bunch of Banshee radiators on evilbay now
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... e+radiator


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Want to get fancy how about a NEW TRX450R radiator 19010-HP1-003 RADIATOR $ 153.80

Used on ebay
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... R+radiator

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dl ... R+radiator


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:54 pm
Posts: 1360
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
ding ding, there you go, helping again with NO finacial reward, it does costs hoser money to host this board, not many consider this and very few contribute if ever and its rarely its asked for.


This board is about HELPING people, find the best deal, the best repair, the RIGHT way to fix something without profit, US against THEM.
the profit zone is rarely seen here but obvious rampant on the others boards.

PROFIT HAS ZERO TO DO WITH SELLING and FRIENDS!!

You help a friend not sell to him, if nothing else than just by definition.


You notice how buggy related the board is lately?

sorry about that, i am done


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
You can make your own mounts for the radiator real easy too, these clamps here go around the rear tubes on the frame a point for you to build off of.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
Where do or can you buy those clamps?


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 1:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:54 pm
Posts: 1360
Location: Baltimore, Maryland
most auto parts stores have them, they are easy to find and cheap


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 11:24 am
Posts: 802
Location: Bolton Ma
I find them at the marine shops as well. Stainless steel ones from marine shop work nicely but are expensive.

Search for cushion clamp


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
I bought a gold wing radiator and fan assembly on Ebay for $40. I am looking into a water coolded head from Hillside Honda. Does anyone prefere Rand's Head over the hillside honda head??? Please advise which is better. I still have no worked the kinks out of the fuel system, but will this holiday break. I have two weeks to get er done. Thanks for all the help. Please advise on best possible water coolded head to go with my gold wing radiator!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 5:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Szostme wrote:
I bought a gold wing radiator and fan assembly on Ebay for $40. I am looking into a water coolded head from Hillside Honda. Does anyone prefere Rand's Head over the hillside honda head??? Please advise which is better. I still have no worked the kinks out of the fuel system, but will this holiday break. I have two weeks to get er done. Thanks for all the help. Please advise on best possible water coolded head to go with my gold wing radiator!


Hillside Honda sells the Rand head.

Call and talk to them about the use and benefits of that head, other will try to create a problem by the nuts or studs being under or in the coolant that is a sales tactic and IMO unfounded crapola, my ROTAX Engine has the studs and nuts in the coolant, no problems here.

You might also Call triple E and ask about the different water cooled heads offered over the years for both the 250 and 350's


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 12, 2006 6:15 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
What about this one?


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 Post subject: cutting out
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
I finally figures out what the problem was, I took the carb apart and cleaned the pilot jet. It was clogged with rust from the tank. BLEW RIGHT OUT AND RAN GREAT. Question does the piston need to be at 138 psi or can it be lower?


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 Post subject: Re: cutting out
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Szostme wrote:
I finally figures out what the problem was, I took the carb apart and cleaned the pilot jet. It was clogged with rust from the tank. BLEW RIGHT OUT AND RAN GREAT. Question does the piston need to be at 138 psi or can it be lower?


Trick now is keeping the rust out of the carb so it don't happen again...

Why you post the same pic twice?

I replied to your other post.

Is that your head in the pic?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 6:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2006 3:31 pm
Posts: 17
the double post was a mistake. sorry. That picture is the head I want to buy. What do you think?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 7:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2003 12:06 pm
Posts: 1418
Location: San Diego
That's the Hillside head, works great on ours!

http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2526

And looks great compared to the round versions, IMO.


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 Post subject: Re: cutting out
PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:15 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
Szostme wrote:
I finally figures out what the problem was, I took the carb apart and cleaned the pilot jet. It was clogged with rust from the tank. BLEW RIGHT OUT AND RAN GREAT. Question does the piston need to be at 138 psi or can it be lower?


Like they said above, you need to keep the rust out immediatly. Flush the tank and kreem it or get it boiled, or replace the tank, or get alot of large filters to keep catching the rust particles.

I sucked sand through my Engine at LS Ok a few years back and by the time I figured out what my problem was, it was around 90 lbs compression and it still ripped all over the place. It had a not idling problem so I had to keep burping the throttle. By the time I got it back up here at 6,000ft it had 65lbs and it still ripped around the yard.

I firmly believe that any water cooled setup is far superior to air cooling(air fans or otherwise) especially if you plan on long rides, hot weather riding, or hopping the Engine up at all. My buddy has a "you know who's" liq head and I run a Rand head and we are both very happy with them. The Rand head has about 25-30 lbs of more compression than my buddies machine so I assume it has a small combustion chamber. I have heard very good things about the Hillside stuff too but I have never run one ...yet. I am sure you will be happy with it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2007 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22512
Location: Chicago
Szostme wrote:
the double post was a mistake. sorry. That picture is the head I want to buy. What do you think?



Looks like the Hillside Honda = Rand head.... go for it!

I removed one of the pics...


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