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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Once the nut is remove its time to install the hoserized Pilot crank case splitter, part of this tool is home made some is part of one of my other pullers.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
This picture is SO IMPORTANT if you plan on doing this yourself, you MUST support and protect the end of the crank shaft where the threads are, this part of the crank is real soft, if you just let the end of the push bolt to push on it most likely you will bend it or mushroom the threads where the nut will not go on, I take 2 washers and a nut screwed on the threads so the end if the crank is flush with the nut, then their is a small thin piece of metal between the nut and the push bolt to distribute the force between the nut and the end of the shaft, if you don't use the washer to shim the nut then it can damage the threads if your just pushing on the nut.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Cases split plenty of muck in the bottom end.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
See where the rod trenched the case?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Aluminum on the bottom of the rod, when the rod contacts the cases it moves metal you can see the raised metal where the gasket goes.

See how discolored the crank webs are from the heat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:59 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Cylinder pictures, I hit it with the hone to clean it up.

No porting has been done to the cylinder.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:00 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The bore measures 3.169" or 80.5 mm


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:01 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Piston measured 3.160


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
It looks like someone cleaned up the surface of the head with a DA sander.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
You can see pitting that will be machined smooth.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:03 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The top of the cylinder looks like it was sanded or something I will lap it to see if its still flat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
The bottom of the cylinder gasket surface looks like it was bead blasted.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 11:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 9:40 am
Posts: 89
Location: Chesterfield/Dinwiddie Virginia
This is what I call good service. The Engine gets delivered one evening and by the next evening it is actually getting worked on and I have pictures to look at explaining everything. It took the last machine shop 2 months to get my B18C1 Acura Integra cylinder head back to me.

I can't wait to get this Engine back.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
I cleaned up the cases gaskets surfaces and removed as much mud/sand stain crapola from the outside as I could, I removed the rusted up dowels and cylinder studs from the crank cases then checked all the surfaces to ensure they were flat, all surfaces were lapped lightly, I had to use a file to remove the raised metal area on one case half where the rod had moved the metal, you got lucky the rod did not damage your cases.

You can see where the rod contacted the cases.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
I also hoserized your cases with my oil hole mods.

You guys may have read or seen this before else where so forgive me if you have, in the balancer case their is a oil hole that catches lube off the starter ring gear and slings it up where the oil hits the cases then runs down into a hole then is channeled to the back side of the balancer where it is whipped up by the balancer weight and distributes oil to the balance bearings .

Arrow is pointing towards the hole, note the nasty casting flaws and rough edges around the hole.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
The oil runs through that hole through the other case (towards the clutch side of the Engine) where it drips out the hole with the blue arrow.

The pink arrow is pointing towards the balancer case vent, the vent system is a chambered baffle system using carefully places passages in the cases.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
This pic shows alot...

the blue arrow is the passage for the oil coming from the balancer case, the pink arrows is the balancer case vent flow , green arrow is the top of the vent where you hook the balancer case vent hose to.

The green arrow points to the hoserized crank bearing oil passage.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Here is a close up of the balancer oil feed hole the whole oil collection area receives a hoser massage to promote a better capture of oil and direction to the oil feed hole, the hole is slightly enlarged.

The Pilot balancer bearings and system is pretty rock solid but I started thinking about and looking at this area after Stonemans balancer PoofKaboom.

hoserize the cases


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 6:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Here is the oil hole where the oil drops in above the balancer weight after being cleaned up.

The pink arrows are part of the vent system.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 7:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Here are some pics of the oil mod, more here of the same mod performed on TD's cases
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... c&start=36

I hate to cut and paste a link but that's what a database (this site) is all about besides it frees up my time not having to retype this all out and uploading pictures again.

hoserized cases


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
While I am waiting on parts I started restoring your head.

Setting it up to remove the damaged area

hoserized head


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:35 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
First pass


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:36 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Second pass


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:37 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
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Location: Chicago
Removing material from the gasket surface to restore the lost compression from removing material from the damaged squish area.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22077
Location: Chicago
Your parts came yesterday so I assembled your bottom end today, I snapped some pics of stuff I don't think I have post before, maybe you have seen it some other place on the web if so I apologize in advance for boring you....

The first order of business was to remove the damaged dowels that go between the Engine and trans mounting plates I am not sure how they got damaged but they did, you need to go out and check the TWO dowels on the trans to make sure they are NOT damaged if they are then you need to replace them too, when you install the Engine you have to push the plates on by hand and feel them go into place not draw the bolts tight and assume they are located correctly.

I spent about 1/2 hr removing these cleaning the holes and replacing they were rusted in and a tight fit :shock:

See the other method for removing dowels viewtopic.php?f=71&t=4501


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