Everything needs cleaned and prepped before use when rebuilding. Pilot Engine Rebuild

Bearings come coated with a protectant not a lubricant so the bearings
are carefully washed and allowed to air dry don't be a moron and use
compressed air to dry them, then they are oiled well with amsoil and put
back into the package they came in.

All that black stuff came off the crank and out of the rod bearing.

Same for the piston pin and bearing.

The piston is full of sharp edges so it is prepped before use http://12.215.127.130/pistonprep.htm

The piston is coated with something that fills the machine marks that are intended to
hold oil on the skirt of the pistons using a FINE stainless brush and lite pressure
you can clean the grooves on the skirt of the piston, once done you can see and
feel the difference.

Damaged wires suck, I will have to clean and solder them back together .

After the cases were lapped they were washed first with carb cleaner then hot soapy
water, then dried and washed again with carb cleaner to ensure the grit from the
lapping compound has all been removed .

You can see shiny spots that is areas that are still low, trying to chase them down
would just reduce the case separation you need between the crank lobes and
bearings, there is no telling if this lapping has been performed in the past on
these cases I will find out when the bottom end is assembled.

The other case.

With the cases heated to about 150 degrees in the oven and the bearings in the freezer
the bearings almost fall into the cases.

Once the bearings are in place and you ensure they are seated you pull
the cases together using the home made Big Tom Pilot Crank Pulling Tool
hehe

Big Tom did a great write up on bottom end rebuilding (first on the web for a Pilot?)
so please take the time to read it http://www.dirtcheapracing.com/tech/bottom/

Rubber bands are used to support and control the rod during assembly,
the crank is well oiled and pulled into the left case half.

Then I applied Yamabond to both sides of the gasket on this Engine since
the cases were not all that great, I know it will seal easily as is I am worried
about after a few hundred heat cycles what will happen.

When you pull the cases together you need to ensure it pulls straight and
even you also want to make sure you don't get a rag between the cases
when it comes together heh

More

This project was stalled for a while due to the availability of a new cylinder, finally
I got all the parts I needed to finish the assembly of Muddboggers Engine and to
pressure test it, for shipping I lined a box with 1-1/2 " foam board then a layer of
card board to protect the foam board then the Engine was put into a plastic bag and
into the box then I sprayed a few cans of that home foam around the Engine so it
cant move while in transit.

Very professional, if i do say so myself!

Youre right that's fringin so smart-I need to think that way in the future, thanks for the perfet job Hoser, I cannot wait to post the motors performance, etc in the coming weeks!!!Also, A big thanks to Hare, Pman for there help in this mess, without there and everyones help I would/could be out of alot more money then I needed to spend, it is a tribute to all here on this board,THANKS GUYS.

What were the final tolerances Hoser on that cylinder and piston Hoser on that motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))?That cylinder was a B cylinder,did you use the b piston as well with it or the a piston?

I used the A piston Trevor says Honda no longer makes a B piston and the B piston
part number has now changed to the A piston part number, you can still get the
C piston.

Cylinder measured 3.1479 piston measured 3.1440 giving you a .0039 clearance
ring end gap for both rings was .020 the deck of your cylinder or distance between
the outside edge of the piston to the top of the cylinder is .022

Your Engine will be shipped with no oil in the balancer case you must add oil before
running, the wires on your harness were cut and nicked I suspect it was from the
other guy removing and installing the Engine special care must be taken when you
install the Engine it is best to set the Engine in place then lift the front of the Engine
and hold it up with a strap or something so you can route the harness where it
belongs then lower the front of the Engine and install the Engine mount bolts,
spcial care is also required for the plates that go between the Engine and trans
you must ensure they are in the dowl pins on the Engine before you tighten the
bolts if not you wil crush the dowl pins and not even know it this is what lines up the
Engine with the trans, I usually position the Engine and install the plates pushing them
all the way on the dowl pins by hand to ensure they are fitting right then install the
bolts, it is a pain in the ass but it must be right.